Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Had frame powder coated, place did a good job plugging the BB/headset etc but laid the powder on THICK! Existing seatclamp (30.2mm) isn't going on even after filing a fair bit of paint away, move up to 31.8mm and see if that does the biz?

Hey, I'm on a bike trip and coming out from the train my front wheel is making this weird noise which disappear when I remove the wheel and turn it. Any idea?
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https://photos.app.goo.gl/yxeqVpz96x67HmJb6

Sounds like the caliper or rotor is catching on something

My hunch is the disc brake spring has been damaged and it's that catching the rotor.

It almost sounds like the caliper touching the spokes but surely not. Must be the rotor on the caliper

I pushed the pistons and realigned the caliper. Still sounds slightly weird but feels ridable, the nearest bike shop is 50km away anyway, it Will have to do 🥲 thx for the inputs

Will this kill me? Downtube upper bottle cage bolt

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Unlikely…but the dentist bill might bankrupt you.

I'd make a mark at the end of the visible crack and keep a close eye on it

my rear mech got caught up in the wheel. snapped casting, twisted jocky wheel guides, so orders new Tiagra 10S. trouble is the drop down is bent 40 degrees in. can i staighten this by hand without heat? without is snapping or becoming weakened???

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Oof, you can try. Worst that can happen is it snaps. You should use a derailleur alignment tool.

can i staighten this by hand without heat? without is snapping or becoming weakened???

By hand? Yes, bolting a moderately long lever to it will allow an ordinarily strong adult to apply sufficient force
Without heat? Yes, but doing it cold needs more force and increases the probability of fracture
Without snapping? Well, people do win the lottery
Becoming weakened? Nope, it's definitely going to be weaker even if it stays in one piece

Those who work on e-bikes more than just rarely:

Are you using anything to hoist them? Do you support them with an ordinary workshop stand? Do you secure them by the seatpost or by other another point, or points?

The mechanics at my old place worked on e bikes all day. The company was too cheap to shell out for a hoist, they just used to lift them in as you would any other bike. Ordinary Park Tool stands but the type that bolt in to the floor, attached to a big metal plate rather than directly in to cement (to make them possible to move if needed). A folding stand would struggle. Just clamped by the seatpost.
Not sure it's best practice but it worked and nobody really moaned about it!

it worked. big adjustable did it. had to correct in 2 planes . new rear mech on and rides well. ta for tips

In the shop we’d always just use the DAG to straighten/unwillingly break a badly bent hanger, but do you have any thought on whether a big wrench is more or less likely to deform the thread interface? Perhaps a wrench would spare the threads but risk deforming the hole, and viceversa with the alignment tool?

Cheers. It’s been the same at vast majority of shops I’ve seen. With increasingly common and heavy e-bikes, I expect there will be a greater demand for assisted lifts, or at least lifting belts, and steel toed boots.

Or just big mechanics who can heave 40kg bikes up and down to waist height many times a day.

Or just big mechanics who can heave 40kg bikes up and down to waist height many times a day.

It's all in the hips.

There were some brake pads recommended on here recently, can't find it now. Any recs for a company who makes decent value pads?

For discs, Aztec are Madison’s own brand, and they’re all right. Fibrax make decent pads too, in the UK. Lifeline’s rim pads are decent and cheap, if you can still find them.

Thanks!

Do you need longer mounting bolts to use a 140->160mm rear flat mount to flat mount brake adapter?

Anyone have a recommendation for a longer/taller than normal carbon steerer compression plug? 1 1/8” steerer. Could do with one while I experiment with stem positions (before committing to cutting the steerer).

No, the adapter mounts where the caliper was with 140mm and the bolts go through the frame into threads in the adapter.
It should come with additional small bolts to go from the adapter to the caliper.