Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I've not bought, yet. Brake surfaces seem to look okay.

Not a bad shout re the salt, could be that jammed into the seam. Seems like a lot though..

Thanks

I have a pair of Zipp wheels which have also developed this and have ridden lots of kilometres on them without issue.

Okay, thanks for the input. Just a reminder that this forum is amazing!

Thanks babe 😘

@Kimmo @fable Cheers for the Shimano shifter advice. Even with my lazy approach of pipe cleaner and penetrating fluid to clean the shifting mechanism up it's transformed the bike! Action is light and precise vs vague and clunky, chuffed

Look slightly delaminated, carbon wheels wear out a lots sooner than expected, even if the braking surface is not concave.

You can always take it to a Zipp reseller for them to enquire with Zipp.

What’s the difference between the Optislick and polymer coated gear cables, and is it with the money?
Prior to my rear cable snapping I’d noticed what I think was the polymer coating (Ultegra) coming off around the cable guide at the bottom bracket gumming up the shifting a bit.

The top level brown cables are one of the worst things Shimano has made, I worked somewhere that would swap them out before selling a bike as they'd inevitably clog stuff with shed coating and come back in ruined, the blue ones aren't as bad but you're better of just getting a slick/die drawn stainless cable.

Swapping front and rear pads out on the mtb today and found this 'pair' of pads I bought from my lbs were mismatched, and only half of them are compatible with my calipers.

Anyone encountered this before? Packaging mistake with madison?

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Packaging with product codes etc

At least one of the two pairs is compatible with my bike...

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Talking to a few shop mechanics it's apparently quite common midpackaging from madison. So in future I'll closely inspect pads inside the blister packet before paying up if I'm buying a package deal.

The BB (shimano UN300) on my commuter / tourer has worn out after 6 months, is this normal? It gets ridden about 25-40 miles a week, with an occasional longer trip, so not much more than 1000 miles in total. I do have to keep it outside and it's pretty exposed to the elements when locked up at work.

Unfortunately that doesn't seem to be an uncommon life for bbs of this kind stored in those circumstances.

I've made mine last longer by keeping the bike covered with a groundsheet when outside, held in place with market trader clips.

Shouldn't be, bring it back to the shop or notify the retailer.

Shouldn't be

Dunno, rode hard and put up wet from November to April? It's not great, but people have killed entry level BBs quicker. UN300s shall grow not old, as UN55s that are left grow old

Thanks all. When I removed it just now to fit the replacement I noticed a lot of rusty gunk inside the BB shell and a bit of moisture on the BB casing itself. I guess that just comes with locking it up in the elements but I was a bit alarmed how much moisture had seemed to get in!

Drill a big hole under the BB shell.

You can’t stop water getting in, but you can help it get out.

Sounds very wise. I'll look into drilling the frame and figure out a way to keep it dry while locked up at work

As tester alludes to, I've had a UN55 that's been left out in all weathers and ridden thousands of miles for years and years and is still seemingly good as new

SJS still have some if you need 115 length

What are people’s thoughts on drilling a hole in my BB and leaving it sealed with a grommet until I’m worried about water

Good plan, but forget about the grommet.

Yep, tester phrased it better.

55's and above used to last for yonks!

Every bike whose BB is full of gunk get drilled.

Its not just letting water out, but also allowing it to breathe.

That’s why I only buy PTFE bikes these days.