Proper leather shoes

It’s time to buy a pair of black Oxfords, entry level Goodyear welts c. £200-250.

I’ve found a few shoe brands which have a similar offering;

Sanders
Berwick
Herrings

Without buying a pile of shoes to be delivered, are there any quality factors to account for on the best brand from the hive mind?

I wouldn't knock loake off the list, but it's going to be about the last with the fuck yeah feeling of putting the right ones on

Yeah, all with different lasts although I know I’m best off with an ‘F’ last.

I've no experience of those brands, all I can say is I like Barker for English made shoes at a reasonable(ish) price and Meermin are well worth looking at for high quality Goodyear welted shoes at a slightly lower price (made in China, but you'd be hard pushed to tell the difference to Barkers and I'd say probably preferable to Loakes).

I’d also take a look at Loake as I’ve had a few pairs and they’ve held up well… Sanders would be my second choice as they’ve been around for a very long time and the suede/crepe shoes I’ve had from them were good quality…

Would you consider Derby’s? I’d be tempted to try the Horatio copies of JM Weston - https://www.horatio-london.com/products/norfolk-derby-black-calf

The oxfords will be for formal wear.

Another recommendation for Loake. I've had a few pairs now, would recommend the Dainite rather than leather soles. The latter ended up wearing through on a early pair for me. From memory their 1880 range is made in the UK from start to finish.

I think Loake is one of those companies that have two tiers of manufacture and the UK made are leaps ahead of the abroad. Vintage Church's and Loake are great value* if you keep an eye on eBay.

*not as great as it once was.

I've been happy with Meermin quality. I think Majoras are also worth a look.

But as others have suggested a few carefully chosen ebay saved searches are probably well worth the effort.

What size are you? I’ve got a pair of Fratelli Rossetti whole cuts and some Church ‘Bristol’ loafers, black calf, uk9 if of interest

Meermin fit quite small compared to the UK sizing - in Loake my sizes are way down from what I usually wear, and meermin I found quite tight.

+1 for meermin, well made and good quality.

+1 for looking at Loake, have got boots, brogue, work shoes, all loake and each one holds up really well, a few resoles as well to keep them going. I think my bedale brogue boots are over a decade old and been worn in all conditions and mud etc, they look and feel great.

Thanks Matty

I’m a 10.5 in an F or 11 in an E.

Ive Got a pair of patent whole cut Meermins already, want to try something else.

I know a said English but I am tempted by TLB Menorca.

Some small progress with these navy Derby’s I’m making, Norwegian welt/stitch down - going to go chunky with the soles I think, leather then lugged Vibram

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Looking good. Are you pleased or are you already planning the next few pairs?!

This is very cool.

I’d love a bespoke pair of shoes, I have the weirdest feet.

I am really enjoying it, before I started I’d had an idea of what I wanted to do but some elements of this were deemed a leap too far for a first time maker so I’m using this pair and the time to learn the techniques - I don’t really know how these will turn out as yet and I’m certainly happy for them to be a little rough, kind of aiming for a chunky trickers-esque sole and stance as the plain upper is pretty plain… I’ve already got some other pairs in mind - I’m adapting a pattern from an old pairs of Tod’s chukkas I’ve beaten up and will also try and rebuild them as well (Blake stitched currently, will go for normal holdfast then maybe a crepe sole like a posh Wallabee)

In other news, found these in a sale at last!

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I look forward to more cobbler instalments then, keep ‘em coming!

Congrats on the Paraboots, was the sale on End? If not, link please, I’d like some full grain Michaels…

Yeah last pair in End sale but was a bit of a faff so got another 10% off 👍🏻

Now I’m fussing with different laces whilst ignoring a teams presentation…

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Also really like the look of these Morjas loafers…

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Speaking of loafers... A few Barker Portsmouths (I think) in black spotted at HSK TKMaxx. Quite a few sizes, just didn't suit my feet.

Dark ones. Light is too much

yeah, agree

First outing of the year. Welcome back Bass Weejuns. We're off to Edinburgh!

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Little side project - resoling some Clarks desert boots as the crepe has perished and is rock hard. Going to sew the uppers to a new leather mid sole then glue on a lightweight Vibram

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