Home DIY

I made something similar for our last flat. I mitred the corners and just glued (edit: no I didn't, I screwed as well then filled over the screw heads) with some L brackets on the back face to reinforce. To fix to the wall, I had an extra piece on the inside at the back that had three holes to screw through into the wall.

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+1 for dbr's screw suggestion.

Given how thick the wood is, if you want to make it neater still, you can cheat by popping the screws in a bit further and gluing dowels into the holes. Or you can use those screws with tiny little heads and some filler.

Why not just use dowles? You need quite a large straight hole which is less forgiving

If you're doing work a long spirit level will be useful at some point, but unless you're in a new build you'll probably be fine/better off eyeballing it.

One of these is useful to go with circular saws.
https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/parkside-clamp-sawing-guide-rail-at-lidl-4181803
Various options out there but the Lidl one is cheap if it happens to come up again.

cypress road

Ah yes, I remember someone saying that when I first got my survey, tried to do some hill sprints up but after a few months off I only managed 2 aha

Your difficult bit will likely be getting a solid connection to the wall once you've made the unit.

one step at a time lol (I might not even get approval from the GF to put anything up), I think it will be just for my carbon road bike, not sure I'd trust it with the heavy gravel bike

cypress road

At least having cycled up you can reward yourself with the best ice cream in london
https://www.marcelosicecream.com

@HeyHey more expensive than the lidl one, but I got one of the KREG Rip-Cut™ for my old Makita circular saw. I've only used it once, and setting up for the first time took a while, but in use it's fucking great. Especially for the sort of thing you're doing.

With the rip-cut the ruler is already on there so no need to measure or mark up. Just dial it in and off you go.

Not a fortune and definitely worth buying if you have a circular saw, and don't/can't buy a track saw. If you Google it, you'll also come across knock-offs for half the price. Idk what they're like though.

Dark Chocolate and Salted Honeycomb into my face

KREG Rip-Cut

looks good and bookmarked it.

However, it presumably relies on the side it's push against to be straight, as opposed to clamping a straight edge (perhaps with help from a rafter square) and pushing against that?

Total newbie here

You should always make a straight cut to remove a factory edge before using anything that references that edge.

You can do that with your spirit level if it's long enough then use that edge as reference.

Yes. Tbh I've normally already had wood cut down to fit in my car so I've got an edge I'm happy with.

I guess you could also clamp two strips of wood (or one if it's big enough) on top of the wood you want cut to give you a straight edge and raise the height.

Sydenham never recovered from Criterion Ices moving.

Far from a new build, not sure there's a right angle in the entire place.
I was just thinking this morning what I am best aligning the picture rails with, the floor, ceiling, somewhere in-between or absolute level. I think I'll go with ceiling as that will be most noticeable

Not DIY but if it was DIY i would be doing the job properly, we are having our windows done in our block by the leaseholder and it’s a big job with gondolas and scaffolding etc for the 7 floors, just seen the painter reputty a section of frame and paint straight over it, having seen the bucket of putty they use, checked the spec sheet and messaged the manufacturers technical service we will find out if they have to rake it out and let it cure for at least 24hrs.
I’m going full Meldrew on this as it’s costing us 8k thousands.
fucking hate shit tradesmen.

Go on then.. what are they using?

Hodgesons rapid set.
It needs oxygen and moisture to cure.

Adhesion: Good to primed softwood and hardwood. Also good against steel.
Base technology: Drying oil
Curing system: Sets initially by loss of volatile components and reaction with hardener followed by reaction with oxygen in the air in the presence of moisture.
Mould Resistance: Good
Movement accommodation: <5%
Paintability: Must be painted as soon as the putty has formed a skin firm enough to accept the actions of overcoating. Apply the first coat typically within 4-5 days. The final coat should be applied within 28 days.

PROPERTIES
Application temperature range: +5°C to +30°C
Shelf life: 3 months when stored in original containers in cool, dry conditions. Some separation of oil may occur which should be mixed back into the putty before use
Skinning time: Skin forms after approximately 1 – 2 days, dependent on ambient temperature and humidity.
Working time: Approximately 1 hour. Do not mix more material than can be applied within this period.

Absolutely fucking hate trying to buy any type of fucking wood.

I need 3 x 2400mm lengths of some sort of pressure treated not super soft wood in 45x45mm ish that's easy to get to from my house. Wickes is always hit and miss. Travis P. has funny hours and never seems to have what I need, and selco is a bit far, but normally where I end up having to go.

(it's for a shed window frame)

selco is a bit far

free delivery?
they do have a habit of delivering what you didn’t order though...

The reason I absolutely hate it, is I'm never ordering enough. We're talking about £15 of wood here.

There's another place I've found online that does loads of landscaping supplies, but the website is painful af.

OK. Despite all my bitching the person on the online chat was really helpful.

This is the closest:
https://www.laver.co.uk/planed-redwood-pse-timber-50-x-50mm-finished-44-x-44mm.html

What do people think about this for a shed window frame? Will I kick myself for not getting pressure treated? It's going to have a section routed out anyway.

Vs some sort of pressure treated softwood a la
https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/47mm-x-50mm-treated-carcassing-timber-2400mm-2in-x-2in?queryID=42efbb14266e7e3ebfe4d1f190623e1d&objectID=21553&indexName=production_default_products

Apparently they can pressure treat it for me, but I'm assuming they don't yet know I only want a few lengths.

I've used Builder Depot a few times. Also their birch ply is actually good and the cheapest around

X post.

The north London one isn't to hard to get to, and importantly it's on slow roads, rather than all the other places towards Watford/St Albans which are on fast A roads.

Any reason not to mount a conventional (i.e landscape) letter plate vertically?

I can't think of one so long as the spring lasts

-I'm only quietly saying this -
I've not used or played with that before but it looks far from the worse product to use.
Two parts usually rely much more on the chemical reaction than the evaporation to cure, some will set under water, I can't say how much of a dickhead they're being (but im not considering any exterior work for April)

I’m making a couple of torsion box alcove shelves.

2.3m span with 30x30 battens which are fixed together and to studs.

It’s solidly attached but I can flex the middle of the span up and down by 5mm with my hand. Is that going to sort itself out with 12mm ply glued and nailed to top and bottom?

Wondering if I need more spans or worst case some floor braces?

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