Home DIY

You are infinitely more qualified than me but I FUCKING HATE when the power cord of the track saw gets hung up on the edge of the track

I do hate that. I get better at it if I'm doing a lot of cutting but it is very frustrating when it happens. Like DBR I have an integrated power cord on a hoover, mine has an overhead boom. That's about the best way to use the corded tools including sanders and the domino as it gets both cable and hose out of the way. Obviously not worth investing in unless you plan to do a lot of work!

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Also, that’s like mine! Which I am very pleased with, thank you!

Yeah I aint buying the integrated brands hoover so will be using the trusty henry I already have.

So glad I came here Its either Milwaukee or Mafell.

Need to paint some windowsills. What's the difference between this masonry paint and the stuff that costs 2 or 3 times as much in the smaller tins?

The (major) retailer will set the price they are willing to pay for it - thus the manufacturer will set/blend the paint to that price....
Sandex (crown) is very good

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Worth putting down some exterior stain sealer from Bin or similar before you go to Sandex though - I've had a few recently where it starts to go a bit patchy yellowy with the white one.

The Mafell is only a little bit better. The new Festools might edge the Mafell ones, I've never used either.

Fair enough.

Personally I find Some tools need the grunt of mains powr and cords don't tend to bother me. I'm left-handed so essentially every tool I use is awkward as fuck.

Battery power has improved a lot. I just don't see a battery tool as viable in the long term. Perhaps they are becoming more viable with the EU pushing for a standard battery connection.

subtext of that is I've only ever used sandtex 'trade' , it's thought of as a cheap paint but I found it very interesting (substantially adequate) in drying, I don't doubt b&q homebase etc will use their buying power to carry a brand but have them forsake quality to fit in a price band - for any snobbery aside I've used Wickes masonry to great affect -+ and that's the cheapest

On the tracksaw chat, my Scheppach (might be the same as titan, bit more than 150€) is great and works with festool tracks.
But the cable can be annoying. I think that's because it's short, way shorter than festool. Then I have a one plug extension cord and that adds weight and aarrrgh.

Rutland have their (corded, urgh) track saw available for £120 currently

linky

Plus £10 off a first order if you subscribe or some such

Looks like the newer model of the one I have.
It's perfectly usable, if you're not using it several times a week there's no need to go maffel in my opinion.
And as said before, a nice high tooth count blade is fun.

Hi all,

I'm taking a break from stripping wallpaper and don't want to delve into the world of plastering/skimming/lining paper yet so going to start a new project.

I'd like to have a go at making this.

I picked up these heavy wood kitchen worktops for free (don't have a car so walked 2 miles with them and my forearms ached for a week) which I think will be suitable.

For tools I have:

• cheap mitre saw I got for free
  
• £36 Aldi drill and impact driver
  
• detail sander I got for free but the velcro is shot
  
• bunch of chisels and hand saws
  
• tape measures
  
• dust mask, safety glasses, earmuffs
  
• birthday coming up and Dad ordered me a circular saw (won't be expensive though)
  
  

obviously not the arsenal many have and don't have the budget to get too much but what else would you recommend?

I'm thinking

• a rafter square to use as a guide
  
• long spirit level
  
• eventually will need a router
  
• perhaps need to investigate the blades on the power saws
  
  

2 Attachments

having been rendering and plastering this week, i can advise you to start a good upper body strength routing in advance!! Christ

The main thing I think you're missing is something to join the pieces. OP would be domino joiner but biscuit joiner is more likely in budget or a cheap dowel jig. Just gluing them as butt joints would be a pain.

As you've highlighted, the best way to do the groove would be a router but, with a track saw, you could quite easily do two passes at 45deg.

but, but, this is a cycling forum..

An alternate but not so nice way of doing the top would just be to make the top in two pieces with 45 degree edges. The back piece will be plenty big enough to hold the box together structurally. Alternatively the circular saw will be able to do the same as a track saw set up with a suitable straight edge.

If you cut a extra length the same height as the sides you can use it as a support to keep things square while assembling. Dowels will be absolutely fine, as will pocket holes, or screwed and glued with/out plugs,. I think Rutlands do a self centering dowel jig for ~30 which will be absolutely fine.

thanks, didn't know about those joiners, bit more than budget allows atm but will set up some ebay alerts. Dowel jig looks decent though, presumably can be used in general for drilling perpendicular holes?

The groove is going to be the challenge..I was thinking I'd probably have to saw it in half at 45deg and just flip one side over. Piece will probably be too wide to use the mitre saw but maybe you can do it in 2 cuts if you flip it round? Otherwise will have to see what features the incoming circular saw has and just clamp (oh..clamps!) a piece of wood to it

Keep it simple, glue and screw with neatly countersunk stainless torx

Any circular saw will tilt the blade compared to the base so that's covered.
Box finger joints would be a reasonable connection system. You could stay quite chunky and only have 4 or 5 per corner.
Glue and screw would also work. Splined mitre joints would be a fancy but possible alternative as flipping 45° ish cut edges will give you an exact 90° joint.

Buy a cheap oil stone and some 3in1 to sharpen the chisels.

You will likely need a finer tooth circular saw blade for finish cuts.

Where are you based. Some local forumite may be willing to help with irl advice or tool loan?

Circular saw with the level clamped to it will work as a guide. Circular saw should have 45deg bevel build in so just set the appropriate depth, do one way, turn the piece around, do the other side.

I would do this before cutting to final length so that you have support on the short side of the cut.

thanks,

I'm slowly googling all these terms and adding them to my trello :)

Just got my first place (hence budget) around Crystal Palace/Thornton Heath

-=-Edit-=-
Think I'll walk before I try and run RE finger joints, do look nice though.

My old stomping ground. I was on cypress road many years ago, just up from Whitehorse lane.

Stick with glue and screw if you want something that just works and you don't want too complicated.

Your difficult bit will likely be getting a solid connection to the wall once you've made the unit.