Gravel / Gravé / Gnarmac / Groad / ATB

this was supposed to be a towpath ride!

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But why would you continue into that level of slop? It's not like you're in a race on a fixed route course or something. Just reroute around shitfests. It's better for the bikes and the ground.

Where's your spirit of adventure?

Re-routing is part of most of my adventures.

Posted by @Grumpy_Git in eBay finds

Brand new arkose for 495?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/395318754270?campid=5336525415&mkcid=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&toolid=1001

Hell yeah!

Only takes a few meters of the wrong kind of mud to ruin a ride!

I spent a lot of time last year thinking about nice magnets (there's some that have M5 threads) and how to do that.
Then I realised that I if I just don't ride where it's incredibly muddy or take the MTB, I don't need to take the mudguards off.

This is how I was going to quick fit my guards, but can’t be bothered.
2 x pitking QR bolts, head trimmed down and turned down to m5 from m6 on the fork crown and rear bridge
2 x SKS front safety mounts on the lower bosses front and rear
1 x upright pin into a stay cover glued to guard at the chainstay mount.

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@gav
Raceblade Pro XL ?

Never, needs to be nice

A nice aubergine frameset on there now too for £150 BIN

I once set a bike up with full guards using short bolts, v brake allen nuts and stuff that meant I could get them on and off super quick, I think I timed myself and it took around a minute.

I never removed those guards.

The guards aren’t very long but the Ortlieb Quick Rack can be fitted with a mudguard and detaches in seconds.

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So thinking about running my Crux 2x
Currently running a DUB crank.
I have axs 36t cassette and rear mech.

Do I need to be considerate of chain wrap capacity?
Will I be ok sticking with DUB or should I go to wide?
If I go to wide am I limited by chainring size?

Wide only come in one chainring combo (43/30). You'd need a new crank with a longer spindle. The RD will be fine with 2x an 10-36. Wide might help with tire clearance >45c but I don't know specifically for that frame what the limit is. Wide is only 2.5mm wider, but it increases the Q-factor too.

I have red with 107BCD power spider at the mo.
Why is it that I need wide?
Does the above give me greater chairing options?
Sorry not being narky just trying to understand

Depends on the frame and the chainstay clearance.

If you are running single ring, you may find that the regular dub is limited to a 38 or 40t. Wide will let you run way more.

In terms of double, you just get more clearance for the front mech etc I believe

I guess it all depends what chainring/s you have planned

Ideally 50/37 or 48/36, I was looking at carbon ti outer and sram inner some doubt if they marry. Or force ones.
My thinking being that anything less than 48 won’t improve top end speed with slicks much.

Wide in SRAM talk applies to crank and FD. For the BB, you just stick and extra 2.5mm spacer on each side. Chainring offset is the same. So you need both the crank (with the longer spindle) and the FD.

I suspect that would be fine on the regular chainset. Sadly, there's only one was to find out.

43x10 would get you to 56.6kmh Vs 59.8kmh on 50x11
(Assuming 100rpm and 38c tyres)
So very similar to a traditional road compact set up with 11t smallest cog.

https://www.bikecalc.com/archives/speeds-at-cadence.html

And using that logic 40-10 isn’t much less either argh maybe not worth the hassle

Money better spent on these perhaps lol

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