Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Disk brakes airplane travelling - what do I need to know or need to do as not to have issues on the other side?

First time packing hydraulic brakes bike, would I need to bleed or remove pads or any such advice is appreciated please.

I use one of them disc pad/rotor spacers and a rubber band to prevent it rattling loose.

I also remove the disc, most peeps don't.

New to carbon seatposts and bidding for one. Is this area of concern? Cheers!

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Yes,

From the photo that appears to be cracked.

Looks like they've done the seat clamp up too tight on it based on locations and marks.

Thanks both!

thx

Anyone had success with a long term fix for rounded square taper on a crank arm ? I have some pretty middleburn cranks and the nds is rounded. Jb weld ? Copper tape ? I’ve read various solutions online but I may have missed something

long term fix for...square taper

HT2 seems to be the solution which has lasted longest

Had a few rides on a bike I built up with a pieced together second-hand Dura Ace 9000 groupset. When I shift the rear mech up, sometimes the lever throw doesn't 'catch', and I've found I'm almost pressing it forwards rather than across to shift. Brake lever isn't being pulled away when I'm doing this, and the cable tension is good/hits every rear cog, any pointers? Could be I'm used to Campagnolo (sorry) and am inadvertently pulling the paddle towards the bars a bit?

Looks like half a rod to rod clamp.

But G only comes up with surgical things. https://images.app.goo.gl/9Czg12RCuhF55VHaA

I have seen these, thanks.

I found some for the wrong diameter, made in China but no longer available.

I did not think it would be this hard.

Hi, hope this is the right place to ask, could anyone recommend where to straighten a rear triangle in London?

Thanks.

Varonha frameworks

There's no 'right' way to move the lever; it should just work regardless - with STIs it's possible to brake and shift in one movement.

Sounds like the grease inside is starting to go gummy; it happens after a decade or so. I'm not familiar with the internals of the later type, but the fundamental mechanism can't be too different from the old style, in which a small pawl pivots on a little pivot about 1.5mm thick, actuated by a tiny hairspring.

There's one of these for each shift direction, and when the friction in that pivot becomes too high, the lever doesn't reliably engage with the indexing mechanism because that pawl moves too slowly, until it worsens to the point where the hairspring can't overcome the friction at all, and the lever swings without ever catching the mechanism.

On the newer type of STI, where both cables run under the tape, it's easier to expose the mechanism; there's a convenient little hatch. I'm not too familiar with these, so I'm not sure how visible the engagement pawls are once the cover is off, but if you watch the mechanism as you shift it up and down, it should be possible to find the part in question; it'll be transmitting the lever movement inwards to the guts when it works, and not when it doesn't.

Best to do this with the lever off the bike, but at a minimum I'd disconnect all the cables and take the bars off at the steerer clamp. Remove the hood from the lever too, of course - the rubber doesn't take kindly to solvents like WD40 or whatever.

You need to point a squirt of solvent right at the sticky pivot and work it back and forth until the gunge is dissolved, and then chase it with some oil (use something a bit thinner if the weather gets very cold in your region).

Thanks for this, so helpful. Will set about it tonight!

Heya! This thread has been helpful in the past, so thought it was worth asking here:

Removed this BB from my partner's bike (90's-ish Dawes Galaxy). We got it a few years ago, but the previous owner had it from new. Not sure if they changed the BB at all.

I thought it was a normal British BB, but I'm confused because the cups are on the opposite side I was expecting - all the BB's I've installed so far have the integrated cup on the Right Drive side.

When unscrewing it, it went in the correct direction (i.e towards the front of the bike loosens it), so what's going on here?

You can't see in the photo but it says BB LP-20 on it.

Am I fine to replace it with a normal BSA / JIS BB?

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LP stands for Low Profile and it's for bikes with a chain case which might foul a conventional drive side BB Cup with a lip.

You should be able to use any equivalent BB to replace it, unless there's a chain case?

Tech doc here.

Ah ha!
No chain case atm, but may have had one previously..

Thanks for clearing that up!

You're welcome, fiver plz... ;)

I've got a set of FSA cranks off my partner's Sequoia that I want to put on the Tripster. What's the cheapest BB I can use with them? I'll need a 68mm one. Are all the FSA BBs basically the same, given the shell width?

MegaEXO? You can just use a Shimano HT2 BB from your parts bin.

Hmm, I don't think so. I'm going to have to walk 3m and find out aren't I? I knew there was some confusing bullshit with their cranks I'd have to deal with.

326 Gossamer cranks. The axle looks big. Where are my calipers ffs?

Ok, this helps...

https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2561328/

FSA Mega EVO?

Yeah, it looks like this one...

https://www.bikester.co.uk/fsa-megaevo-road-bsa-bottom-bracket-for-bb386evo-cranksets-M442226.html

EDIT: Here's their helper site:

https://www.fsaeasybottombrackets.com/

386evo is a 30mm axle. You can get an FSA MegaEvo BB off of amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/FSA-Pedal-bracket-BB-EVO8681-BB386/dp/B00GM276S4