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  • Jacob Kenedy (Bocca di Lupo) had a recipe in his book geometry of pasta that came out a while ago that has been very reliable for me over the years, available here

    You could replace the low simmer with a low oven which would probably be easier

    Ragù bolognese
    Serves 8

    minced pork 500g
    minced veal (or beef) 500g
    chicken livers 100g, finely chopped (optional)
    carrot 1 (200g)
    celery 2 sticks (200g)
    onion 1, medium (200g)
    garlic cloves 4
    butter 100g
    extra virgin olive oil 60ml
    pancetta 100g, not smoked, cut in strips
    white wine 375ml
    milk 600ml
    chopped tinned tomatoes 400g
    beef or chicken stock 250ml (optional, otherwise 250ml more milk)

    It is worth having a butcher mince the meats coarsely (8mm), for the improved texture.

    Peel and dice the carrot, dice the celery, chop the onion and slice the garlic. Take a very wide frying pan (30cm), and melt the butter in the oil over a medium heat. Add the vegetables and pancetta along with a good pinch of salt and sauté for 10-15 minutes until softened.

    Increase the heat to high and add the meat in four or five additions, allowing time for any water to evaporate, stirring and breaking up any lumps with a spoon. After the last addition, wait until the pan starts to splutter slightly, then decrease the heat to medium and fry, stirring occasionally, until the meat has browned with a fair proportion of crispy bits – about 15-20 minutes.

    Deglaze with the wine, then transfer to a saucepan along with the milk, tomatoes and stock as well as a good grinding of pepper and more salt to taste.

    Cook at a very gentle simmer, uncovered, for about 4 hours until the sauce is thick, more oil- than water-based (add a little stock or water if it dries too much or too quickly). When ready, the liquor will be as thick as double cream and, stirred up, the whole should be somewhat porridgy. Adjust the seasoning one last time.

    The addition of bay and/or dried chilli flakes along with the meat is heretical, but not displeasing.

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