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Same in the rim, different in the hub. If you put in the "key" spokes first, so one to the left of the valve, head whatever way you want, and two to the right of the valve, then at the hub radial is the next hub hole, 1x has a 2 gaps, 2x has 4 gaps and 3x has 6 gaps etc. means you always leave the valve uncrossed and if you put the logo in the middle of those first spokes you can see it through the valve hole. I start all my wheels like that and never really have to think about anything more than starting things properly.
snottyotter-
Same in the rim, different in the hub.
The way I get the hub logo aligned is to find the hole that best aligns with it and that'd be where your 'key spoke' would go for radial then it's 1x, 2x and 3x as you work round the hub flange in whichever direction you're going to twist. That's as much thought as I give it. I guess when I flip to the other side and find the hole in that flange that apirs up with my key spoke then it just works itself out?
But that's assuming I'm doing the same crossings on both sides, I can see how your way you're finding that key hole in the flange for each side so it's easier to do different crossings.
M_V
I'd normally do the driveside first, starting to, lets say the left of the valve, call that spoke 1. Spoke 2 would be the 2nd hole in the flange and 4th hole in the rim anti clockwise of that and so on.
Flip to the nds and normally I'd be looking for the hole in the flange which is offset just to the right of the hole in the ds flange that spoke 1 is in and I'd be running a spoke from there to the hole in the rim immediatly to the right of where spoke 1 is.
In the case of this wheel, do I insert the first nds spoke into the same hole in the hub flange I normally would and then go to the 3rd(?) hole to the right of spoke 1 or do I take a different hole in the flange and go to immediatley beside spoke 1 in the rim? Or is that actually doing the same thing?