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To really appreciate it you have to have spent the previous night riding down the 90-mile straight so you go off your head with weird hallucinations when it gets dark.
At one point the next day I met a guy on a touring bike going the other way. He was flying in the tail wind, with hardly any effort. He gave me a friendly wave. I hated him.
The only consolation was I did see my first kangaroo along that bit. It was quite small so maybe a wallaby.
You're describing my favourite riding. :)