Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Yes, that's a 1x derailleur, however even the 2x Deore might struggle with 30/46. A 10t different between rings would be standard.

Considering how conservative Shimano are, I would guess the 2x 512o (or 4120?) derailleur would probably shift @M_V set up fine. The new Cues RD-U6020-10 would probably also get you there.

Those SunRace black cassettes just lose their coating and cover everything in black shite.

I'd not have bought them if I'd known that. I wanted all-steel cassettes (don't care about weight and don't like binning a whole cassette just because the alu granny cog is dead) and I've found that cheaper Shimano ones will do the job I wanted.

Ah fair enough, I kind of thought that the 2x might be the root of the problem. The only other derailleur I have would not manage the size of the large sprockets in the cassette so I guess I’ll live with it.

It shifts pretty well with the shifter in friction mode, and the indexing is a bit better too now that I’ve given the hanger a little attention.

Edit: I've also slid the wheel forward in the dropouts to simulate a slightly longer chain and definitely runs better as it was.

I'd leave it baggy in small/small, less likely to cause problems than accidentally going big/big when you're tired and exploding the mech.

It goes into it, the chain just rubs on the bit of the cage that's folded over.

I'll probably get a smaller cassette next time/if there's anything super cheap on crc!

Yeah, I don't think yours will explode if it's getting into the gear, but general advice.

Did a great job of stripping the teeth on this BB, suggestions on how to remove would be greatly appreciated.
Italian thread so annoyingly a bolt and washer technique might lefty loosey the thing

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carefully hacksaw it in half - it's alu so should cut quckly

Engineer hacksaw

Definitely try the nut and bolt way and crank from the non-drive side.

Dremel notches + flatbar + worlds biggest spanner = win

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I think I'm going to be pushing the friendship trying to fit an 10s 11-42T cassette onto the Tarmac with a 50/34 DA cranks using Wolftooth and 9s XT RD but only a 116 link chain...

Grateful for opinions - second hand carbon frame (always a gamble obviously, but very cheap). Cracks around down tube bottle cage bolts, have been filled or painted. I don’t think this is safe, and is likely to gradually deteriorate / open up if I hit a bump. But I don’t know if I’m being too fussy? Thanks

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Chances are it's just white paint being shit and cracking so you can see the primer underneath. That area shouldn't be highly loaded so I can't see why the frame would start cracking there. There's a chance the previous owner fell and knocked the bottle which could cause cracks like that. It would be a cheap repair if it is structural.

That’s very helpful, thanks. I’m being paranoid! Cheap for a reason then, but not fatal…

That area shouldn't be highly loaded

Torsion in the downtube is one of the key loads determining the dimensions of frame tubes. It's anybody's guess what's under that poorly applied filler. I'd want to be sure before riding it, but as you say it would be relatively easy to paper over the cracks with some extra layers of crabon fribé to make it safe enough.

You're right, I suppose what I meant was that it is not a common failure point. Tubes are easy to make and analyse compared to the joints and interface areas.

Thanks both. I’m not heavy, but I do like riding fast and I suppose I’m worried that it might explode if I hit a bump on a descent!

Might get it assessed for a repair…

Simple question but wanted to double check before I gave it a whack with a rubber mallet...Have just fit a new BB and this is as far as the crank arm goes on when torqued to correct spec...is this fine or does it need a bit of gentle persuasion with a mallet? (For reference the drive side crank goes all the way to the end of the taper)

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If I wanted to get some nice trustable bolts, black, for various areas (stem to pannier support) that won't rust (stainless steel?), where do you buy yours?

No local hardware stores here.

https://www.accu.co.uk/ (but not used them for some time so there could be better) based on Tester's response 7 years ago: https://www.lfgss.com/comments/13810397/

Can someone help me understand what's going on?

The RH r8070 lever keeps losing pressure in the hydro brake line. I've bled it 4 times and it comes back but after about 400, 500km the bite point is at the drops again. It's not spongey, just the bite point of the lever is all the way back.
There no visable oil anywhere, on the brake caliper, under the hoods, on the shifter or on the bars.
I'm totally lost for ideas and it's driving me crazy. I don't have the money to just replace the lever, line and caliper.
Any ideas?
dbad

Reach/throw adjust screw unwinding itself?
My SRAM ones do this almost weekly, which is more than slightly annoying

want to throw on a 10x speed 11t-48t cassette (1x), have a shimano rd m6000 long cage. Can it work? Is a derailleur extender probably needed for this?

Thread lock?