Home DIY

Your other option is shift it by half a tile so you have just over half a tile on each edge, obviously it wouldn't be a symmetrical pattern anymore, you'd have a grout line rather than a tile down the middle

What is the depth of your skirting? You could go wild and get 25mm skirting to reduce the grout line on the edges…

with the sun shining again today my thoughts are turning back to finally running my ethernet to the summer house so i can close the trench i dug almost 10 months ago.

the trench through the garden is about 6m long and then the decking is about another 6m where it will run above ground and the conduit will have to run around the side of the summerhouse and enter about 2m up the wall.

obviously fishing 14/15m of conduit in the future would be a major pain in the arse if i need to re-do the runs so i'm wondering if it makes sense to split the conduit under the decking and put an appropriately ip rated junction box in the middle so i can fish it through in two sections instead of one. means i can also replace sections under the deck without digging the trench back up. have plenty of cable glands and an assortment of boxes ready to do so probably don't need any additional kit to do it just wondering if it's as smart as I think it is or if i've overlooked something.

Buy a cheap reel of polypropylene rope from Toolstation/Screwfix.
Feed this into the conduit, so you can pull your cables through at your convenience.
Maybe have two pull lines?
Who knows what you might like to do in the future?

Anyway to add a skim to already laid concrete? Need to neaten some stuff up, tried previous and it’s just kinda washed out over about a year.

How thick and in what location?

Only about a cm, front garden path.

https://www.thepavingexperts.co.uk/product/larsen-professional-slc-2500/

Larsen SLC 2500 is a rapid set, hand or pump applied cement based levelling topping, specially designed to eliminate surface irregularities and smooth both internal and external concrete surfaces which are exposed to industrial traffic. SLC can be applied from 5-15mm, or for isolated thickness up to 50mm you can mix 25KG SLC 2500 with 12.5KG of clean, dry 3-6mm aggregate.

If you're going to the effort, and there is concrete underneath would it be worth tiling?

I’ve got a barely flowing bath / shower mixer (Grohtherm 2000 - about 10 years old, fed from a combi boiler). Almost nothing coming from either the hot or the cold.

There’s plenty of pressure going to the basin in the same room and it was fine to the bath before it went wrong.

I’ve just replaced the thermostatic valve but no change.

Given it’s both hot and cold, what else could it be? An airlock?

Plummers soup is more new build (debris on first use). Is it just limescale on a filter ? - I'm scrapping this idea as typing

I wondered that but no, it was an airlock on both hot and cold. I took the mixer off the wall, gently opened the stop valves to check water was getting through and after a couple of gurgles, both cleared, spraying most of the bathroom.

You make it sound easy

What kind of brick yuck is this?

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Our wooden garden gate is falling apart and the wood rotten in a number of places. I’m weighing up renovation vs replacement and wondered if anyone had any recommendations if we do decide to just buy a new one?

Hard to tell. Could be mould, could be efflorescence, could be something else. Either way looks like it could be damp related and I’d be a bit concerned about that joist

Buy a new one

Where is the damp course in that photo?

Now I know the word, I'm pretty certain it's efflorescence.

I'm not sure I'd know where the damp course is.

You kind of owe it to yourself to attempt to determine where the damp course is in your property, as it will maintain your sanity, and reduce stress levels.

Let's be optimistic and say the likely efflorescence pictured above is on bricks that are underneath the damp course.
You can pretty much ignore it, as damp induced effects on brick/blockwork beneath a functioning damp course will not spread to the brickwork above the damp course.

The rafter on the left hand side appears to be seated on a tile,
certainly the colour is unlike most bricks and the sharpness of the edges and corner in unlike any *brick I have seen.
This could be your physical damp course, as a ceramic tile will not transmit moisture from the brickwork beneath to the susceptible timber rafter.

If you can find another rafter that is similarly bedded upon a ceramic tile you can begin to expect that your property was built by craftsmen with adequate supervision,
and, at least internally has a physical damp course.

[*Other bricks are available. IANABE.
I am not a not a brick expert].

Pallet beds. Yes. I am tight.

They’re pretty simple right? 4 pallets, sanding, brackets to join them together.

Pallet beds

Pretty sure these are strictly for the gram and not real life.

You know 2nd hand beds on FBM or Ebay are free or close to free.

Good info, thanks. I'm currently outside replacing the guttering which undoubtedly has been a contributing factor in this. Will get back under the flooring later.

Shopping for a teenager innit.
Who just decided “I’m putting those two single mattresses on the floor and taking the single bed down”

Full of bad chemicals, you need to read the code stamped on them for which nasties they contain plus splinters as rough sawn shitty softwood.
Forget hand sanding them.

Face-ache marketplace or similar for a proper bed base or at leased some planed timber from diy store and buy the slats from ikea.