How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.

Damp, innit. If you squeegee the shower enclosure then more of the water ends up down the plug hole faster, meaning that less hangs around in the grout, on the shower screen, etc. And if you've got hard water, this also slows down limescale spots on the glass.

I've never wiped down a bath after use, though.

i use a squeegee to wide my shower down - a pretty high volume of water goes down the drain instead of evaporating into my house so IMO it's probably a good idea

edit: helps that I have a tiled, walk in shower with a glass panel and the gubbins hidden behind the tiles. Much easier to squeegee down that way.

Yes I dry my bath/shower/taps I now live in Norfolk and they deliver the water in cubes it’s that hard.
You’ve seen those grow your own crystals kits? Well that is just Norfolk tap water.

I've recently started Karcher window vaccing the shower screen and a few of the surrounding walls after a shower. Gets about 150ml of water up. I've never wiped down a bath though.

Ah I completely skimmed the shelf part.
Probably bit late.

I'd go for a led strip routed into bottom shelf then. Done properly that's quite nice.

I'm sure drying showers gets rid of some water but I'd have thought the vast amount of humidity was generated during the actual shower bit?

Would be kind of interesting to record humidity after drying and on another day without and see what difference it makes but it's probably too hard to control for all the other things.

i think wiping it down makes little sense unless you're binning or washing the towels, both of which are wasteful. If you're drying the towels then there's no net decrease in humidity. I suppose it's probably still better for grout, etc.

@Sparky this is definitely the neatest option. If you do it go for continuous strip led as it’s a much nicer and more even light than the strips with spaced LEDs.

UK-grown Douglas Fir joists and birch ply panelling on the flat roof section done. Looks much nicer IRL, really chuffed with it.

Had to play around with joist spacing to fit the skylight reveal in so edges are flush with joist sides; ended up with the best compromise which didn’t involve spending £££ on a bespoke skylight size (this one’s a standard ready made 1x2m).

Joists are going to get a light-tinted wax treatment to tone down the pink hues.

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So I should find what height I want the shelves at, get them to whack a plug socket in just above it, and run the wire through from the top of the shelf, then stick it to the bottom of the shelf or route it into a channel? How do you turn them on and off easily though? Plug will be a pain to get to, no?

Apologies in advance for hijacking your question, but:

What's the best LED strip product out there for this exact purpose? Ideally dimmable, continuous diode strips, and ~2700K colour temperature with a high CRI...

Ideally you want them wired into a dimmer on the lighting circuit not plugged into a socket.

You could do a kinetic switch with a wireless receiver if wiring it conventionally is a pain. I would at least aim to have it plugged in in a cupboard with the wire (extra low voltage) buried in the wall. ELV would be 12 or 24v.

Ideally you’d have the driver wired to a switch and hidden out of site (mine are on top of the wall units but you could put them under the floor cabinets if you’re not having wall one) and the. Run low voltage cables to the strips. Low voltage cable is much thinner and easier to hide/chase

This is what you need. We have several sets in our kitchen, you dont need fancy switches and new wiring, a product exists to do the job. The Enteenly LED strip runs off a plug with a thin wire, you can resize the light strip length cut shorter or daisy chain together to make longer, change intensity and colour all by remote control. Cheap and easy as chips.

We got our from Lidl, apologies for the Bezos link:

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I got mine from UltraLEDs. Reasonable prices and very helpful people on the online chat to answer questions

That’s going to look realllllly good. Can you get it finished now and do a full reveal and write up please?

With the current zeitgeist for exposed joists are there any issues with fire stopping, sound or insulation?
I get they add a feature but are they one of those things that look great on TMH/Deezen/Moodboard created by millennials wearing orange beanies indoors but the reality of living with them comes with compromises?

If you have the beam exposed it needs to be painted with fireproof paint. Or if you're my local building control you ask that even if it's being covered by fire board anyway

I'm sure drying showers gets rid of some water but I'd have thought the vast amount of humidity was generated during the actual shower bit?

Idk about majority, but I almost fill our kasher vac thing with one shower. And push/wipe the standing water down the drain. All of that would have to be evaporated into the air to disappear. So it's a meaningful amount of moisture.

If you're susceptible to mould in certain places in your house then you usually need to employ a combination of factors. For me that has been:

• extra loft insulation over the bathroom
  
• anti mould paint
  
• window open during and after shower
  
• vac (or light squeegee if I'm in a hurry) after shower
  
• lights and fan left on for a good 10m post shower
  
  

Together the result is instead of continuous mould on the external celling wall and sporadic mould elsewhere, I now just have a couple of light occasional 2-3mm spots on some grouting on the cold wall, and a bit of build up on the window (which we're slack about cleaning). That's pretty easy to stay on top of whereas getting round to remember to spray antimould spray when the kids will be out for a full day, and wiping ceilings is a pain.

The proper solution would be to remove all the tiling and insulated the external walls. But that's basically a new bathroom.

Wall/over hob lighting question. Our kitchen will have a sloping roof to the right of the ceiling beam in this picture with four big roof lights. Kitchen place just couldn't put that in their design. Hob has an integrated extractor and the wall above will have shelves, just not the one they have put in the picture (we're using Foresso for the island top and they went a bit mad on the design tool when they realised they could take an image from the Foresso site and use that in their design tool). Need to find a few ways to get more direct lighting for the hob seeing as there won't be the usual handy light you get with an overhead hood. Any pictures for inspiration would be useful as my Google-fu is failing and I cannot use Pinterest for the life of me. Also ignore the stools, and the tap, and the massive gap around the fridge.

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Another shot of the hob area

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I think they're meant to be employed with a warm roof, which I assume has some sound dampening properties. Obviously that brings in extra building roof height considerations as it's a less efficient use of space. But then it looks nicer.

Cleaning is a bit of a pain. My folks old house had the old fashioned French equivalent. The non-varnished beams were always filthy and impossible to clean. The varnished ones were hooverable. Either way you don't want grain that can snag.

we have 4 of these wired into a dimmable switch. really nice light to work by. I only added an overhead light for when we sell, we only use the light from these. They are 60cm above the worktop.
https://www.dykeanddean.com/products/angled-white-wall-batten-lamp-e27?variant=12745622224951&currency=GBP&utm_source=stry&utm_medium=trafb&utm_campaign=storeya60&utm_term=&gad_source=1

Very much thinking aloud, but I wonder if there's a way to have an illuminated glass splashback behind the hob.

The thing that's always shit is cleaning grease off things round the hob, so that would be one of my main considerations.