Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

You could try tapping in some stanley knife blades either side too

Yes I think that’s the plan, thanks.

I like the look of the icetoolz tool but does anybody have one of these? Just wondering on size, because it looks pretty beefy

My concern would be if any prizing was needed I might shatter the blade

The old skool crown race trick was to hammer a blade in, then another underneath, until there was space for a flathead

Is there a "risk of firey death" reason to go for the official DMR V12 service kit over the 75% cheaper version?

https://www.dmrbikes.com/Catalogue/Pedals/Pins-Bearings-Axles-and-Tools/V12-Bearings

vs

https://www.mountainbikebearings.co.uk/product/dmr-v12-pedal-service-kit-v2-please-check-sizes/

Obvious difference is a few of the parts are not included in the cheaper version so would need to be re-used in servicing.

Been advised by LBS this morning that e bike specific chains are essentially a marketing myth

Here’s an example; e-bike rated and e-bike designed, the latter is better on e-bike, the former just mean it can be run on e-bike as well as acoustic bikes.

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It's not really going to be doable due to being too close to carbon.

Just choosing between these two designs.

The first one - icetools looks sturdier but I'm not sure it will fit in the spacing.
Second one looks thinner but reports are it's not very strong.

Does anybody have an icetoolz and can measure it accurately for me? I would really appreciate!

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My experience of Ice Toolz is that they are cheap and shit, and it is worth spending more to get tools that are actually fit for purpose.

Do what other said, use a blade and hammer it in between the carbon and crown race, this is one of the very rare instance that a simple method exceed those expensive tools as thpwe tools need to be in excellent condition to barely make a dent.

When you put a new one in, cut the crown race to split it and shove it in, this way you won’t need to cut it off again.

If the crown race use the same angle cartridge bearing as the new headset; leave it on.

It's not a crown race, Ed. It's a thin lower bearing race on a Campagnolo Chorus 11 spd UT crank. The rest of the bearing came off, leaving this on :-/

Edit - I've ordered the thin cheap looking one from Chainreaction for £15

This happens.. and after you've walked away to make a hot drink, what is your plan of attack?

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Drown in penetrating fluid for a few days then... mole grips? I've never had much luck with easy outs but would also be a sensible route

first instinct would be a pair of mole grips. then if that doesnt work file a couple of flats for a spanner. and if that doesnt work then whatever the best reviewed bolt extrater is

I’d wire brush it off and weld a nut on the end. Mainly because I don’t get to play with my welder very much.

I’d wire brush it off and weld a nut on the end. Mainly because I don’t get to play with my welder very much.

Definitely this. I don't get to weld much at the moment because the last time I did I set fire to my garage, and my MIG welder is full of fire extinguisher powder.

weld a nut on the end

Welding on a plastic fork? I can't think of a single thing that could go wrong.

.

I fairness I was on about the crank, but I’d probably do the same to the brake bolt TBH ;)

That’s what compressors are for :)

Where's the manual to take these Rotor 3D off and reinstall please?

Ally fork?

Ally fork?

Carbon. Have found someone with a pillar drill and various bits to help get it out. Mole grips did nothing.

Get a decent penetrating oil, Kroil is my go to, expensive in the UK but pays for itself in the first quarter of a can every time. Oil, tap, days, oil, tap, days. Don't even bother trying to move it the first few days. The more valuable the item, the longer you leave it.
Get geodore or knipex pump pliers the really good grabby ones, again, pricey but pay for themself within the first few uses tbh. Wiggle back and forth the smallest amount, often for an item that failed during loosening, you actually want to tighten it first, get the threads pushing the other way on the fastner. Can use heat, but wouldn't in that situation.

Welding a bolt on the end, MIG if your good, TIG would be better, more control and less heat. Want the absolute smallest amount of heat pumped into that tiny alloy fitting in the fork.

I don't know about a manual but to remove them, loosen the pinch bolt on the non drive side crank arm. But only loosen it, don't try to remove it. Then undo the big crank bolt on that same side et voila

Would not heat carbon, and no way to weld a nut on.

Drill out is the only way, IMO. As you have done