Home DIY

I guess there is welding involved too.

Batten update: cut the timber off with a reciprocating multitool. Then the screw reluctantly but eventually came out with a big pair of mole grips.

We bought a kitchen tap, it's a mixer one and comes with flexy hoses for the hot and cold attached. The female end of the hoses seems to be 10mm. I'm struggling to find an adapter to connect them to our 15mm pipes. Any advice?

Like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kitchen-NewEast-Single-Stainless-Monobloc/dp/B0BLYX1BR8/ref=sr_1_1

Has anybody used these?
https://www.sautershop.com/keilverbinder-dovetail-connector-starter-set-set-kv-starter
I’m building a shelf unit and I’ve not decided if it needs to be knock down or not. If it does these look an easy option.

Are they 10mm or possibly 1/2" (12 and a bit mm)?

[https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-compression-adapting-male-coupler-15mm-x-1-2-/69358?

or 15 x 10

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-compression-reducing-coupler-15mm-x-10mm/51238

1/2'' is too big. I don't understand how plumbing bits are measured because in real life it's about 16mm or 3/4/'' .

This is the same 15mm - 1/2'' coupler from your first link.

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Are the tails removable? It may be easiest to replace them or reuse old ones, as the top end tends to be standard 10mm.

That's what I was thinking and I don't think they are removable

You can buy smaller adaptors that go to 15mm, i can't mind the size but it's like a euro size.

Toolstation or Screwfix im sure sold them and if they didmnt city plumbing will have them.

It's pretty mysterious to me too. I usually take the mystery bit to a plumbers merchant and they give me the bit I need and I can check it on the spot.

I'm almost positive this is the size, stupid euro things and you get waste adaptors too which are like a euro fitment(mcalpine do an adaptor if you every have the issue)

https://plumbinbits.co.uk/product/15-3-8-bsp-male-iron-adapters/

Thank you, I've ordered some to see if they work.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-brass-compression-adapting-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-3-8-2-pack/6089R?tc=BT1

Used these in the past to get the euro tap hoses to fit. And then connected into a 15mm diameter isolating valve.
Someone's put a review on the Screwfix product page for the adaptors that explains their method.

Oh cool I'll try those too. Thanks.

I know what I want - doors and a frame for a brick bin shed.

Where do I find them wickes fu isn’t working g

Post what you find, as my folks gifted us shed doors for Xmas.... which I still need to find.

I do know that "flb" helped to narrow it down.

FLB = Framed, Ledged and Braced

...and for my purposes; single brick outdoor building with a outdoor toilet and outdoor storage does this look alright?

https://www.doordeals.co.uk/product/redwood-tw-flb

And should I put one of those ledge thingys on the bottom to reduce rot from rain fall?

Connected our new sink/tap and washing machine yesterday. All good, ran a quick rinse to test the machine out. Came down to an error code saying it couldn't drain and a leak from the water input pipe, fun.

Needs a half moon cut out

I was looking for an excuse to buy a router...

If you put mdf pegboard in a damp environment, what would you seal it with?

Would waterbased exterior varnish be OK?

I wouldn’t put it in a damp environment.

That would be the ideal. Out of curiosity what would be your concern about the limits of an exterior varnish on mdf?

For context:

My brick shed is a bit damp due to being single corse, no air brick and next doors garage being above the dmp.

I'm planning out a pegboard on one wall, but the metal ones are incredibly expensive. Unfortunately I haven't seen any MR MDF ones. I don't think the standard hard board ones would last.

I know the ideal thing would be to sort the cause of the damp, but that's quite involved and not a reasonable use of my time against the various other work that needs doing.