Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

If youre using rim brakes then nothing with a black braking surface will last longer than a few dry rides/one wet ride. Go discs if you want all black rims. I definitely feel like I've seen some retro steel builds with discs that don't look too unnatural. 140mm rotors will help too

The bike is disc, but I'm wanting to build the wheels on box section style rims. Such as below.

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box section in 24 holes could be a little difficult to find. with a quick search I found Mavic A 1022 or Mavic Open Pro UST Disc, but they are not very "box-ish".

not box but pretty shallow ?
https://www.lightbicycle.com/bead-hook-less-rims-carbon-700C-light-bike-rim-tubeless-compatible.html

Carbon is out of my budget I think :(

https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m20b0s116p3767/KINLIN-XR-22T

A retro-styled rim, in modern drilling, with exotic coating is a tough ask!

Kinlin ADHN are cheaper than TB14, but don’t think they come in 24h (no doubt Kinlin would make some if you ordered in bulk!). XR-22T in disc flavour are likely the only thing close.

Shallower/box rims often have more flex than modern/deeper equivalents, another reason why you tend to find them only in higher spoke counts. You mind find views upthread on whether the 22 can stand up to 24h disc.

Looking for a rear QR 20h j-bend hub !
I want to rebuild a tagalong trailer rear wheel. 9, 10 or 11h freehub so i can also put a new shifter + derailleur on it.
any help or pointers ?

A retro-styled rim, in modern drilling, with exotic coating is a tough ask!

Yep. I reckon you'd find a racing tandem 48h rim more easily, just miss every other hole... and effectively drillium so lighter... hahah

Lucky me, I've managed to win a pair of those wiggle disc brake hubs, 24H.
If I wanted some wheels to replace my DP Ryde what's a good tubeless all round rim?

I have a set built on Kinlin 3ft-rd, 25mm internal, tubeless is easy. It’s quite deep, 35mm?

35mm sounds good.

What's the crack with building a wheel that's 3x on one side and 2x on the other?

I normally do the heads out spokes on both sides followed by the heads in but building it both sides at the same time like that I can't see how I'll get the different number of crosses on each side? Do I have to just build it one side at a time?

can't see how I'll get the different number of crosses on each side? Do I have to just build it one side at a time?

Build as usual, just keep in mind that the number of holes to offset when you insert the heads in spokes differs between sides.

Doesn't having the spokes already in place on the 2x side when I twist the hub for the 3x side mean that those shorter spokes are being pulled too far?

Does that make sense?

those shorter spokes are being pulled too far?

Not if you've got them in the right holes.

I'd normally do the driveside first, starting to, lets say the left of the valve, call that spoke 1. Spoke 2 would be the 2nd hole in the flange and 4th hole in the rim anti clockwise of that and so on.

Flip to the nds and normally I'd be looking for the hole in the flange which is offset just to the right of the hole in the ds flange that spoke 1 is in and I'd be running a spoke from there to the hole in the rim immediatly to the right of where spoke 1 is.

In the case of this wheel, do I insert the first nds spoke into the same hole in the hub flange I normally would and then go to the 3rd(?) hole to the right of spoke 1 or do I take a different hole in the flange and go to immediatley beside spoke 1 in the rim? Or is that actually doing the same thing?

Realise this might all become glaringly obvious once I start actually building the thing and/or 16 spokes in the wrong place isn't such an onorous way to learn.

And of course, I could actually just stop being tight andf fork out for the right size spokes and build both sides 3x. Going 2x on the nds is just so I can use spokes I already have!

Same in the rim, different in the hub. If you put in the "key" spokes first, so one to the left of the valve, head whatever way you want, and two to the right of the valve, then at the hub radial is the next hub hole, 1x has a 2 gaps, 2x has 4 gaps and 3x has 6 gaps etc. means you always leave the valve uncrossed and if you put the logo in the middle of those first spokes you can see it through the valve hole. I start all my wheels like that and never really have to think about anything more than starting things properly.

Same in the rim, different in the hub.

The way I get the hub logo aligned is to find the hole that best aligns with it and that'd be where your 'key spoke' would go for radial then it's 1x, 2x and 3x as you work round the hub flange in whichever direction you're going to twist. That's as much thought as I give it. I guess when I flip to the other side and find the hole in that flange that apirs up with my key spoke then it just works itself out?

But that's assuming I'm doing the same crossings on both sides, I can see how your way you're finding that key hole in the flange for each side so it's easier to do different crossings.

I also always build one side at a time so different crossings on different sides has never seemed like an issue.

Is it no a pain in the arse getting your heads out spokes in on the second side if you do one side at a time?

Just force the heads in a way that they doesn't get trapped in one of the small crosses, same way you'd replace a single spoke.

Not really, guess it might be slightly slower but can't be much in it and I'm not racing. I keep things loosey goosey until they're all in so room to bend a bit and they usually drop in pretty easily.

i do one side at a time too. just find it easier for my brain, have no issue getting the other side in after even with little 20" etc wheels