What kind of bike/frame do I need?

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  • Wondering out loud here as I haven't seen a thread for this kind of question (difficult to search for it too, tbh).

    I'm looking for a bike/frame that's essentially a steel version of the one I currently have in aluminium (a Triban RC520). So disc brakes but quick release drop-outs and 135mm rear spacing, rack and mudguard mounts, maybe more traditional geometry rather than sloping top tube, 1 1/8 non-tapered steerer forks. It'll mainly be used for touring, but I'd like it to not be an absolute tank so I can pretend to ride up hills fast when all the luggage and stuff is off it or I've put 'lightweight' stuff on it.

    Does this frame/bike exist? If so, what should I be looking at? Price is a consideration too, so second-hand availability would be cool.

    Thanks in advance for suggestions.

  • I like my Mason Resolution (steel) but equally get on with my much cheaper Kinesis alu bikes.
    Is there something wrong with the Triban?

  • Oh, that does look good/exactly the thing. Cheers.

  • Is there something wrong with the Triban?

    No, it's absolutely fine. Actually surpassed my expectations. But I'm a sucker for a steel-framed bike. Plus in the hilariously unlikely scenario I need something welded on it while cycling through, I dunno, Kyrgystan, it'll be fine.

  • I like my Mason Resolution (steel)

    Oh, they do look nice. Pricier than ideal, but I do have a tax rebate coming at some point this year.

  • I just waited until one of London's Famous London's great drivists decided to try and insert their car into the same (in b4 "large") space my body was already occupying. The car lost. So did the driver's insurance.

  • That's probably a more extreme route than I'd like to take, tbf.

  • Croix de fer? An older one, think they are thru axle now.

    Planet X/On One Kaffenback?

    These probably have more tyre clearance than your triban but that can only be a good thing right?

  • Poking my nose in where it's not wanted but if it somehow came down to QR vs thru axle I hate to say this but thru axle is in every sense better (EXCEPT if you are porting everything over to a new frame and don't want to buy new wheels)

  • (EXCEPT if you are porting everything over to a new frame and don't want to buy new wheels)

    This is the case. The idea is I can take everything off the Triban (including my lovely Arkane wheelset) and bung it straight onto whatever steel equivalent I end up going for.

  • Triban clearance is up to 36mm (according to their website; I have 32mm on at the moment and there's plenty of room). But yeah, big clearance a bonus.

  • older brother Kepler?
    as long as you don't hate short head tubes etc.

  • What hubs do the Arkane wheels have? Most hubs now allow the end caps to be changed so you can use them in another configuration.

  • Bitex. Not sure which model, but they're 6-bolt disc hubs in black. No logo or anything on the hubs and no information beyond the above on the invoice.

  • Go on, just rebuild your wheels

  • Sounds very similar to the wheels he built for my girlfriend. Swapped from qr to ta when she swapped frames

  • I guess my point is that you don't have to limit your search to a frame with disc quick release spacing at the rear, which, as it was quickly replaced by thru axle spacing, limits your options considerably.

  • The guy who does the bitex distribution (that site above) is really helpful if you email him - I broke a bitex axle and he helped figure out which I needed from photos.
    Thru axle is definitely a huge improvement over qr so worth doing if you can.

  • Yeah, that's why I posed the question. Good to know I might be able to just change the end caps and broaden the search.

    As an aside, what's better about thru axle? Is it likely to be anything I'd really notice?

  • what's better about thru axle?

    As someone that's had plenty of qr/disc bikes over the years and got a thru axle mtb about 6-8 months ago... fuck knows.

  • Thru axles are wider than qr so help to add stiffness to the bike, but, arguably more importantly, they mean the wheel goes back in the same place each time you put it back in again so you’re not having to re-centre the disc calliper repeatedly.

  • Another niche is something like a budgety tourer with an alfine IGH.

  • thru axles are thicker / stiffer, have 'better' engagement at the dropouts so help to reduce disc brake rub, apparently safer as your wheel can't be ejected under heavy braking.

    IMO 'huge improvement' is a bit of a stretch though.

    i wouldn't let it sway my decision either way if i saw a particular frame that i liked.

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What kind of bike/frame do I need?

Posted by Avatar for ketsbaia @ketsbaia

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