Any question answered...

Which make?
We're in the transition between 18650, 21700 and flat cells,
which have very different charging and discharging/power delivery rates.

You also get more power from a bigger battery. I don't know why because I don't understand electricity, magic perhaps.

In the market for a (beneficial) rabbit hole?
Torque Test Channel on yt.

My (amateur) understanding:
better connections between individual cells,
thicker wires to deliver power to the electric motor.

I've just fallen for an invoice scam. Had a flooring company out to do a quote, all good. They emailed the invoice to me and it was intercepted. I got a fake email with a fake invoice, and paid it. Reported it to Monzo and trying to report it to Action Fraud now. I'm never seeing that money again am I?

go in the exit, straight to the warehouse.

Ryobi. Although the tools are fairly cheap the batteries are a bit pricey and the one I had got nicked from my car boot.

A look on that Torque Test channel does suggest bigger is better. I'd also guess magic.

Aah, Ryobi are in a period of flux.
Techtronic Industries, the owner of the Ryobi brand name,
along with Milwaukee, (and a couple of others that are manily for US Big Box stores),
have a dilemma.
Ryobi have an established user base for their One + range of tools,
which until recenly have been brushed electric motors and 18650 battery cells.
They are well priced and readily available, although no longer stocked at Homebase.

Ryobi now have 'HP' tools with brushless motors,
(and a bit of a price hike),
and,
'HP' batteries based upon 21700 battery cells, (but not the best 21700 cells).

Best news: Ryobi has maintained compatibility snce the days their tools were blue plastic,
(I have such an aged drill and driver, and an old hedge trimmer) and used NiCad batteries.

The HP tools and batteries have two additional connection tabs that allows HP batteries to send the increased power to HP tools.
An HP battery will work in a non-HP tool, (and vice versa), but won't deliver increased power, just longer run time.

My understanding is that it will depend on the current rating and actual battery chemistry. If a 2AH and 4AH have the same current rating then - depending on the chemistry - they'll both give the same performance until depletion. One for longer than the other.

I think.

This Torque Test Channel yt video
goes someway to explaining battery cell differences.

There are shortcuts if you look hard enough

Terminator hard or Jason Statham hard?

Smaller batteries can’t deliver the same power as a bigger battery can because they drop more voltage under load. Probably won’t notice on something like a drill, but you will notice with something thirsty like a grinder or circular saw.

Batteries usually have faster discharge curves under heavier load, i.e. the faster you try to extract energy from a battery, the less total energy you get out*.

Assuming the 4Ah battery is just twice as many of the same cells in parallel as the 2AH, each cell is carrying half as much load, and because of the above will last more than twice as long.

OTOH having two batteries will let you continue working while the other battery is charging which can give you something resembling infinite battery life, so do that.

(* The "2Ah" rating itself is based on applying a particular sized load, as you'll get a different number depending on your test current)

Love map men

Hate the seemingly 2 mile walk from the new Elizabeth line to terminal 2 departures I had to do this week

I have no idea - I would hope so - but just fishing this out from the battery chat...

What handlebars, stem and grips did I use when I built this?

1 Attachment

I think Stem looks like the ‘aero’ dura ace AX , or the 600 version

There are shortcuts if you look hard enough

Terminator hard or Jason Statham hard?

Johnny English hard will do.

Ah! I vaguely remember getting a Noca top cap at some point which may be for this.

It’s actually the flooring companies fault for not having secure emails. Assuming the email came to you from their usual email account.

Their email was hacked, and I never actually got an email from their real account once - not since December 18th when I first made contact. I was recommended them by a forumenger, found their (legit, it turns out) website, used the contact form to message them... They must have got that first email, deleted it, and started a conversation with me from a false email account they set up. They spent months relaying plans, messages etc back and forth. Quite clever really. All waiting for the day when an invoice was eventually sent, then they slotted a replica one in with their own bank details on.

The flooring guy doesn't seem to get what happened, really.

IANAL but while I'd guess you might have trouble having the bank recall the payment, I think there's a fair argument that if the retailer has had someone snooping on their company emails during the entire conversation then they bear some responsibility too

We got similarly scammed a few years ago. We were having fences installed. The work was halfway through and we got an interim invoice. Similar to you their emails were hacked and the bank details had changed. We paid the invoice and then got a call from them saying their emails had been hacked. As such it was their liability but he had just had a kid so we offered to pay the material costs again as his financial situation was worse than ours. He would send out his invoices once a month and had effectively lost a months income and expenses.

Since that day I always call and verify bank details if I get an email invoice.

I can see the argument for it being their fault to some extent. But my problem is that I need this guy to come and install floors in the house. That's unlikely to happen if I start demanding that he takes a £1,500 hit on a job totalling £7k.

He'll want your business. £1,500 < £5,500.