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• #44052
of course, forgot how it works. Thanks for kind offer of SDS too! was also thinking of hiring a mini digger, just because it looks fun :)
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• #44053
I’m in Canada.
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• #44054
Any recommendations on where to buy bannisters? Want one to match this if possible
3 Attachments
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• #44055
What colour and what paint for my front door? Do I just go little greene and one of their period correct colours?
Also, why is so much paint blowing? Almost feels like the stuff I put on did something to the layers below, possibly not breathable? Or just age?
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• #44056
How did you stop it getting dirty soot everywhere?
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• #44057
just go little greene and one of their period correct colours
👍
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• #44058
I did it on an old pallet on my dad’s drive, it was also easy to control how burnt they got
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• #44059
Sorry I should have been clearer.
Once you've burnt the fuck out of the wood. How do you make sure that anything coming in contact with the wood doesn't get all sooty?
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• #44060
Aha. I was being thick, that is a more sensible question!
I wire brushed anything loose off, and then I varnished them with matt varnish. I don’t know what you’re “supposed” to do, but I bet it isn’t that. Anyway, it has worked excellently, they’re clean, cleanable if they get something spilled on them, and not sooty.
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• #44061
Also, why is so much paint blowing?
I wish there was a nice little one sentence succinct answer. From the image where you've gone back to the wood it's grayed (weathered from tiny cracks) one tiny crack can cause quite a lot of that and really you want to be working on the fresh timber cells underneath that. Air gaps do occur often in moulding and internal corners - also on that weathering wood shrinking. Bullseye (I'm assuming) effecting the oil paint it's going on, hmmm, potentially something else going on there. The working temperature isn't great at the moment
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• #44062
Cheers. Talking about the masonry though.
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• #44063
Oh such a laugh,
you've only just done that :) -
• #44064
Nah, Ive patched it up because it’s blown, it hasn’t blown again thankfully! Yet!
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• #44065
[technically painting sand stone was never a thing (and it's not suggested, think cathedrals) but once one neighbour has done it the whole street takes part] ,, once the filler has been rubbed down, hoover off, go over with dusting brush , and potentially a megga wipe - no dust = paint = paint sticks
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• #44066
Sorry that was written in a bit of a hurry with something on the hob. Was it all coat in a deep tint?- all coat is a very plasticy hard paint, deep tints are more likely to have adhesion problems.
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• #44067
I'm doing up a room at the moment and the subfloor is in a pretty bad way - cracked, creaking, or the boards are the wrong depth all together. My measurements are 21.5mm thick, 122mm-ish wide.
I assume that makes them ⅞" x 5" boards and i'm struggling to find anything reclaimed.
Reckon I could get away with https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-PTG-Timber-Floorboards---18mm-x-119mm-x-1800mm/p/120831 or would the T&G just mean theres too much of a gap?
Was hoping to make right for under 50 as it's just an office so I imagine overlaying with ply probably isn't the way to go.
1 Attachment
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• #44068
👍
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• #44069
No worries! I should prob give fuller context.
When we bought the house I suspect it was freshly painted, cheaply and quickly (it was a terrible job).
I tried to do a decent coat or two of a nice little greene paint.
Fast forward 4 years (WTF, how?!) and lots is blowing off, but it’s taking the below paint with it, so possibly the stone blowing.Has the little greene paint caused the issue or would it have happened anyway? Who knows! I’m just a little bit concerned about how much to strip back/worry.
Plan is to sand, maybe zinnser 123 bare patches, sand, then top coat with Little Greene again.
Once I’ve chosen colours. Ffs.
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• #44070
You can always knock the tongue off the boards with a saw/knife. As they will be slightly less thick you will need to pack them below to raise them. Plastic packers work well here.
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• #44071
Which little greene paint did you use? It's likely moisture vapour permeable so it's possibly the paint underneath that's causing the problem.
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• #44072
The proper masonry stuff, and yeah that’s kinda what I’m worried about.
Prob going to take another 9 months to decide colour so prob may never arise.
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• #44073
Not a bad shout - guess I need to get myself down to a store to measure boards without the tongue if i'm thinking of knocking it off, lest I get gaps between boards that I'll be able to feel.
I really thought there would be an abundance of people selling old floorboards but I suppose they either end up in skips or on peoples instagram reels.
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• #44074
Christ plastering is time consuming. Also harder than I would like when none of the walls are flat let alone straight
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• #44075
I very often end up stripping everything surrounding windows as it's such a mixed bag depending on the building. IR stripping works but I also chip a lot of paint and loose mortar off with a chisel. Sanding seems to take forever although it feels like it should be easier.
If you're converting to LED from halogen you can very often just change the module for a v-pro dimmer which does all the dimming types and programmable low and high settings. They are good value if you buy them from screwfix as a pair in white and strip them out.
[https://www.screwfix.com/p/varilight-v-pro-2-gang-2-way-led-dimmer-switch-white/98455?kpid=98455&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Electrical%20and%20Lighting?