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Aha. I was being thick, that is a more sensible question!
I wire brushed anything loose off, and then I varnished them with matt varnish. I don’t know what you’re “supposed” to do, but I bet it isn’t that. Anyway, it has worked excellently, they’re clean, cleanable if they get something spilled on them, and not sooty.
I did it on an old pallet on my dad’s drive, it was also easy to control how burnt they got