Home DIY

How far off is the floor?

Can't you just put down a sheet of ply then use the the machines feet to level it?

Self levelling actually doesn't it just slumps. You'll need to trowel it into a half decent level.

Consider putting plastic sheet under so it doesn't actually bond to the floor, fucking it up for the next person to change the kitchen/floor.

Marine ply given what it looks like now.

Dewalt Atomic 20volt is the only Dewalt you want.

I have a lot of Milwaukee 18V. The Fuel batteries are being replaced by Forge, but they are expensive and overkill for most consumers.

Whatever you get be sure there is a support network for service and repair. Makita has almost disappeared among trades here because they have no support. Bosch is non existent.

Went with this in the end

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dck2060l2t-sfgb-18v-2-x-3-0ah-li-ion-xr-brushless-cordless-twin-pack/337kv

further 10% off took it down to a pretty reasonable price and it has a 3 year warranty

https://www.toolstation.com/dewalt-dcd709d2t-gb-18v-xr-brushless-compact-combi-drill/p60545

...is what I bought yesterday, when the chuck of my old Bosch jammed up

The amount self levelling self levels, depends on how you mix it up. I used it to rebuild the hearth in the living room. It was very easy to use. I did make it slightly looser, which meant it found every minute gap there was so there's probably a few litres under the floor. If you make a frame and cauly the seams you'd be fine. Or use plastic sheet as has been said.

4 Attachments

Can't you just put down a sheet of ply then use the the machines feet to level it?

That was the plan, but unfortunately the floor dips at the back, meaning the board rocks, meaning the washer rocks - even with the weight. Tried a vibration mat underneath, but it still had a slight rock.

Cheers.

Annoyingly from reading it sounds like you want a SLC designed for the right depth. Cleaning has uncovered a massive fucking hole.

Am I over-thinking this, or will it matter?

it has a 3 year warranty

Only if you register it.

Go and register it now while you remember 😉

Am I over-thinking this

Probably. The deeper sections just take a bit longer to go off, from my very limited experience. I imagine it would be more critical on surfaces that will be walked on or have underfloor heating or need to meet regs or some shit. If it were me, I'd just whack some down with a form and see what happens.

doing it right now and immediately frustrated by the range of serial numbers!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-cement-based-levelling-screed-20kg/116hu

I’ve used this stuff (for things you shouldn’t) http://www.unifloor-underlay.com/products/ecopearls.html once there’s I bit of board, weight on top it doesn’t move.

If you were bolting down an expensive piece of machinery, it would matter.
As long as this hole is not under one of the feet, proceed.
As mentioned above, it will just take longer to cure.

shims?

this tile hearth is letting the side down in our dining room but it's too much faff to remove and we already had new carpet in so demo work is out. the tiles as you can see are pretty heavily soiled and the grooves in the tile pattern annoy me greatly for some reason there's also a couple of small cracked pieces on the edge tiles.

with a budget of zero pounds and what i have at my disposal in the shed how terrible an idea would it be if i were to cut and paint a sheet of plywood to size and lay it on top of the tile held in place with a a few dots of a weak grab adhesive around the edges to stop it sliding around

edit: picture is from before room was decorated. walls are finished now.

1 Attachment

Depends what you want to achieve. If it's to have a uniform surface in the colour of whatever paint you use, I say knock yourself out. Another option would be to have a look at FB marketplace for someone getting rid of extra tiles and chuck those down on top. My heart from a few posts ago was bargain basement. The most expensive thing was the oak trim, and mainly because I bought the wrong stuff and had to buy it twice.

Would oiling the slate and trimming the edge with oak not work?

i'm getting a big rad installed (75kg empty!) soon and wondering if anyone can recommend some radiator feet just to give it some extra support? It's just a standard type 33 rad, not columns.

I'm struggling to see how the ply will look better.

Other budget suggestions to add to Stevo's:

• old bricks
  
• tops tiles throwaway basket outside
  

Layed the self leveling.

Came up with a neat way of working out how thick to make it, by putting double sided tape on a speed square and on a long level, then sticking a small cube of my MRMDF onto one end.

I used a whole bag as I was prang about getting the mix wrong given something heavy and vibrating is going on top.

Underestimated how little I'd need and ended up having to madly scope it out before it set, and made a hole in one of my walls.

In hindsight I maybe should have just made it to the same level as the floor and kept the mr MDF for something else. But I didn't want to risk damage to the wood.

2 Attachments

Foam is a really good way of getting an edge to a pour as well. We did our kitchen and used it at the thresholds as and when it was needed.

I’m thinking about screeding my garage floor. Question is will it be suitable to have my car on it? And if not what are the alternatives?