Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

please could someone tell me the dimensions of stndrd bike boxes? Ideally I'm looking for the dimensions of the boxes ridgeback velocitys come in, size L. I hoping to have a bag made for our tandem and these boxes slotted one into the other were perfect last time we needed something.
I’m also interested in exploring shipping the tandem to spain and would like to hear about this too.
Thank you

Check everything, especially bb and headset

It’s normal, take a bit of careful wiggling to get it out.

Like the rest of the industry, there is no 'standard' unfortunately.

My recommendation would be to find the minimum length of the bike when packed and source a box to fit.

Local cargo bike dealer (eg Tern) might be your best bet.

Just get bigger boxes than you think you need then cut to size.

It’s normal, take a bit of careful wiggling to get it out.

Thanks, Ed. Seem to be differing views on this. If the stem is stiff on the steerer with the bolts undone how do you adjust the bearings with the top cap?

Yes, I’ve tried installing compressionless housing and wiggled it around to the point that it’s started to fray and strip itself apart : (

So I’ve gone back to re-using the old (non compressionless) housing and it’s found its way through the frame with a lot less fuss. Maybe the fact that the compressionless stuff is so rigid makes it very hard for internal routing, not so good for my rear brake!

I gave up with compressionless housing in any bike with tight housing bends. I found it made my bike steer weird too, the bend to get it into the headtube cable stop was too much and it would split more often than regular housing

If the stem is stiff on the steerer with the bolts undone how do you adjust the bearings with the top cap?

The preload screw can generate more than enough force to move a stem if all that's holding it up is friction generated by the spring back of the open loop of the stem.

I've got a nice steel frame and been using carbon seatposts for the last 5 years. A couple of years ago I noticed the seatpost being harder and harder to get out and that there seems to be some roughness in the seat tube. It's not rust, rather a rough inside of the tube and a lot of carbon dust.

I've just had to remove the seatpost for travel and it took about half an hour and all of my physical (and mental) strength. I'm worried I won't ever get the seatpost out if I put it back in (if I do get it in in the first place).

Is reaming the seat tube going to fix this? If not, what would? Cheers!

Should help. Or else get a sanding drum down it on an extension, using a cordless drill.
Use grease/carbon paste liberally on seatpost installation

https://www.dwtoolshop.com/products/sealey-vs022-cylinder-hone-twin-leg-20-64mm-1-1-8-medium-stones?variant=43977409691887&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA_aGuBhACEiwAly57McqSlsEC7b6mxJDdJDma0eW9OvY9dWQjc4u3UekxLXcGGIPiXNb8vhoCFB4QAvD_BwE

This might be the wrong thread but what’s the best way to clean a drive chain with no outdoor space? I was think cassette in a bucket and then maybe a small ultrasonic cleaner for the chain? Can do a wipe down for the frame and deeper clean at the bike shop when it’s serviced.
Just went out today and the chain is a bit chrunchy and trying to figure how to clean it without annoying my partner by ruining the bathroom.

Pop the chain into an old bidon with degreaser in it, give it a good shake, leave it for a bit, give it another good shake, then wash it with hot soapy water. Dry it off, and those microfibre cloths are great for that, and pop it back on.

Ultrasonic cleaners are crap, unless you've got space for a big one.

Nice, that sounds much easier. I definitely dont have space for one of the big ones and tbh I’m not looking at getting wax level clean. Haven’t got that deep down the rabbit hole yet

Spray something with some solvents in it on a rag, wipe chain as you pedal backwards, wipe chain with non sprayed bit of rag, lube chain, wipe off excess lube. Little and and often and you're all good.

Use a combination of compression-less and normal housing using housing connector.

Had some bike where distance from rim brake caliper to cable stop is so short that the compressionless housing doesn’t allow it to move, putting normal housing there but compressionless from lever to cable stop retain the sharp powerful braking.

I’ve not had a compression-less housing being tricky on internal frames yet, what frame is it?

Kinesis GTD v3

It’s normal, take a bit of careful wiggling to get it out.

You were right, that's all it took in the bike shop for them to get it off. It's fairly stiff on the steerer, but you can still easily adjust the bearing pre-load, as @gbj_tester said. All good now, thanks.

We did a lots of expander replacement when there's a recall on the Tarmac SL7 not long ago, it's not a conventional expander that we're used to hence why it appear to be quite tricky.

Good call going to your LBS thought, when in doubt, best to go to them than try and attempt it further and risk voiding the lifetime warranty.

Kinesis GTD v3

Just saw the frames, it should be ok? the housing enter the top of the downtube and exit the bottom of the same downtube right?

(forgive me, it look straightforward to me cause we work on those kind of upgrade for decades).

Had a nightmare with the one on the left last year. I'd followed instructions on how to remove but the middle wedge wouldn't budge and had to cut it out of the steerer with a junior hacksaw blade taped to a screwdriver...

That's right, it enters at the top on the right hand side and exits on the bottom at the left hand side. Indeed, it does seem straightforward, especially in this case as I had the old inner brake cable still internally routed to use as a guide.

However with at least 45 minutes of trying, magnets out etc I still could not get that outer housing to find its way out the exit hole. The housing was Jagwire keb sl for what it's worth. Then re-tried the old cable again and it took a couple of minutes.

I feel you, I did attempt this the first time many years ago before realising a better way.

That’s how it is really, mechanics learnt best when they make a mistake.