Any question answered...

Oi, that was done several 1000k's previous!

Aesthetically (trust me I am an architect),
I personally go for garbaruk and alugear 3 bolt chainrings.
Much more elegant, come in any colour, teethage (as in, nw-compatible) and offset one wants.
The garbaruk (not actually UK, but UKrainian) has elevated teeth levels that are nw +++ so to speak.

Per example; on my all city dropout for which you have kindly supplied decals:

There has been a car parked outside my house for four weeks now that hasn't moved a mm. I took
photos a week apart to check and we're in a CPZ and it's getting no tickets or anything but never seen it before and nobody has moved in near me either. It's weird as fuck.

Robot Wars CPZ (Corner Patrol Zone). Is it Dead Metal.....

My parents forgot me in a grocery store once, I was about 4 at the time. They were phoned once they got home and reminded to count their progeny (there were 3 left at that time, 2 had moved out by then).

It's a lot of fuss over 0.5mm

It's a mystery isn't it? I'm looking forward to the reviews. With three pro teams using them you have to hope there's more to this than half a mil.

If they make no difference, why wouldn't they take the money? It's probably pretty easy to outbid the established pedal suppliers.

Of course, my laziness. I do remember an Alex Dowsett video where he suggested part of his allegiance for Bont shoes was the low stack height of the shoe (eg thickness from cleat to sole of foot) giving an aero benefit for just such a fit change and this a similar key benefit of the Adam Hansen home made ones.
Perhaps with the trend for having tufts of hair protruding through you aero helmet those 0.5mm have become of increased significance.

There's a thread for that. UTFS. Noob.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/1500­89/

The resident expert is @mashton.

Dat thread is whack. Mr Mcarty’s link did help actually.

Following on from the discussion of Q factor upthread, is Graeme Obree the only one who's ever used a short BB shell and bearing? (I think he used a bearing from a washing machine?) There must be a marginal gain to be had for riders with a certain physiology.

Placebo effect ;)

is Graeme Obree the only one who's ever used a short BB shell and bearing?

No, there have been others. Only really works for track/fixed, the Q_min is constrained by the need for the chain to reach the top sprocket without hitting the crank on dérailleur bikes. The Walser bikes nicked an extra 10mm by using a special narrow hub, which you can do with a disc wheel. Drive side flange placement on a wire spoked wheel is already close to its limit.
You can theoretically get down to 120mm with a standard 42mm fixed chainline/68mm BB shell, though I'm not aware of any OTP cranks which do. Xav's work identified negligible gains between 120mm and 90mm. To get to 90mm you need elevated chainstays because the gap between the chainring and the tyre is too small to fit anything structurally useful.

Very very slow puncture. Track pump the tube, bang!? Ideas for reason? Wear and tear of patch, misplaced patch originally, check the tyre?

Is this a standard light bulb for which I can buy a replacement? The only marking I can see on it is W.20.III

It comes from a 'Salcombe' solar powered light from TheSolarCentre. They are being very weird with questions about it - saying that it is not available in shops, that they will be selling a replacement 'soon' (although they have been saying this for literally 5 years), and that sourcing a replacement elsewhere won't work and will break the light. Well the light is no use to me without a working bulb anyway, and I don't believe any of what they're saying.

1 Attachment

That's an E27 base and I'd be take a guess it's 3V rated. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Replacement-Customized-MJ-Premier-Operated/dp/B08JFZRJCF/

Or this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WELSUN-Edison-Equivalent-Outdoor-Lights/dp/B09DFGQBYC/

(The glass shape is called ST64 if you want to keep searching for an exact match)

Super helpful. Presumably I want to match the number of filaments - and that this is directly related to the wattage?

This one looks nearly right but 2 filaments instead of 4
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355242374452

Funny, I just bought a pair of those (or strikingly similar) from energylightbulbs.co.uk
https://energylightbulbs.co.uk/led-light-bulbs/vintage-leds/vintage-leds-e27/retro-vintage-led-4w-squirrel-cage-edison-style-filament-bulb-smoked-gold-glass-st58-e27-edison-screw

Looks very similar but yours is mains voltage I think

Ah, yes - I missed that detail. Hope you find what you need

Anyone know anything about reducing road noise at a property? We’re looking at a house that is about 100m away from, and maybe 10-20m elevated above, the equivalent of a B-Road that has cars every 2-3 minutes.

Right now there is nothing blocking the noise, just a chicken wire fence. We’d like to understand if anything can be done and to what extent, to reduce noise in the outdoor space.

Indoors? Modern double/triple glazing will solve this.

Outdoors? A dense hedge, in leaf, will mitigate some of the road noise.

"some of" as in: "almost none of" 🙂

A dense hedge

Show me a hedge dense enough to generate any worthwhile sound attenuation. If a tree falls in the forest, every fucker hears it for miles around 🙂

Where does good towels? I've got some from Dunelm that are about 10 years old and still going strong but my partner (who has much better taste than me) would prefer all of our towels to match, rather than 0 of them match.

10-20m elevated above

You need a substantial mass interposed between your ears and the road surface, something like a brick or concrete wall extending well above the line of sight. You need to examine the profile of the intervening space under your control to determine whether there's a reasonable solution.