Home DIY

2 x 12mm boards to get floor level with the kitchen floor. Take your pick of easily available 12mm material (Ply/MRMDF etc.)

Had to change the rest of my answer, I thought you were fitting a dishwasher!

The plasterboard is moving and the screws don't move so they pop a piece of plaster out. You can unscrew the screws and add washers to spread the load and try and secure the plasterboard or fill them and cover the entire ceiling with a specialised lining paper so it doesn't keep happening. Well at least you don't see it.

Cheers

Would a flexible filler help? I will try the washer trick and report back @Airhead

It might do but they're difficult to blend in with the surrounding area. Also depends on the amount of movement. When I've had similar problems on a ceiling under a roof it's been after roofers have been walking on it.

Sometimes helps to add some more washers/screws at new positions along the joist.

Plasterboard screws don't rust but it's difficult to find washers in the same material so you might need to use a stain sealer or primer on the washers before filling over them.

If you press on the plasterboard with your hand you might see the movement.

Has this only recently happened? Has anyone been on the roof at any point? We got a load of nail and screw pops like this while our roof was being re-tiled just from the roofers walking over. I cleared out any loose bits and filled with toupret ready mixed and they have been fine since.

Can’t you use some scrim and filler? They probably should have been scrimmed when they were plastered.

I had some screws pop when my daughter had a meltdown in her room for our newish kitchen ceiling. Fixed it 6 months ago and it's been fine since. Seems like a first move and done.

What's the easiest fix for this door handle?

I'd replace the whole unit but I can't find anything with the exact same dimensions & I don't want any headaches with fitment - there's no grub screw etc. to hold the handle onto the spindle so over time a little brass collar on the inside has worn away & pulled through, so the circlip has nothing to brace against - any way to secure the inside of the handle with a little clamp or similar or do I just epoxy the bastard to the spindle?

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Hacksaw a new groove for the circlip?

so the circlip has nothing to brace against

Is it possible to create the brace using epoxy rather than having to epoxy the entire handle, which could issues when it comes time to replace the whole thing?

Is it only fucked on one side?

If so just epoxy it and spend the saved time doing something more fun.

It is indeed only fucked on one side - that's the side we pull the back door closed so the exterior handle is rarely even touched.

Whilst I do admire the more elegant engineering solutions suggested, I think I shall indeed epoxy the bastard - if that fails I'll investigate welding the bastard

If its the side that you pull, can you reverse the handles and epoxy the side you hardly use?

Actually yeah, I probably could dismantle the other side & swap the handles around - I might investigate that if the epoxy approach fails, primarily as I don't know where my circlip pliers are but the epoxy is in "the drawer"

Drill and tap so you can use a grub screw if there's enough spindle?
If you have what's needed probably less time than epoxy.

Edit: or just buy a handle, they come in adjustable/break off length?

Drill / tap / screw was an early thought - would be a nice fix but more effort to borrow taps & then not fuck it up, the chance of this being really quite high

Handle also probably made of cheese.

Just to say thanks for this suggestion as B&Q do small sheets. So I could just get one cut in half. It's a pain when you're looking at the best part of £60 for something you only want a bit of.

I had so much good advice about dishwasher fitting too!!

Did you figure out the leg heights? I assumed they would be quite short on a washing machine.

Floors down, ceiling half up, soon we can plaster the walls then start fitting the actual kitchen

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Sort of. I think 15mm plus the adjustment at the hinges should be OK. One of the issues with the door is that the extra bit of ply we added to support the front of the machine raised the door height making it hard to adjust.

I'm going to borrow the vibration pucks from the tumble dryer for the day of install just in case I've fucked up and it needs to be higher.

JL is out of stock, so the actual purchase is on hold pending us deciding what to do next.

But at least it's one job down. Altho I stupidly didn't think about writing the exact measurements down so I could get it cut exactly to match. So finding my circular saw in the loft and learning how to use the kreg track thingy is now on my tdl.

https://youtu.be/0loXukB302Q?feature=shared

It's not going to say how to fix things
(Edit: sorry to just dump that there, they get mentioned every now and again, and I've never got to grips with there potential)

Need to replace a kitchen tap cartridge as I think it’s causing vibrations when hot water is being used (not certain!)

But I can’t get the tap handle off. It’s a Franke Ancona or similar https://www.screwfix.com/p/franke-ascona-sink-mounted-mono-mixer-kitchen-tap-chrome/77255?kpid=77255&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Bathrooms%20and%20Kitchens?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIidH4iO-YhAMVapJoCR02ZguSEAQYCiABEgIx9_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I can undo the spout grub screw and then the handle grub screw, the handle slides about 10mm then stops. Do I force it? Not sure how it’s stuck but I’ve given it as much force as I felt was safe. Any ideas?

Doesn't look like anything is holding the handle on other than the grub screw:
https://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p47131510.pdf

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrpQAUKvX7s&ab_channel=TapMagician

Tool for cartridge:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cartridge-Valve-removal-spanner-SP3308/dp/B07KV7TDFR