Any question answered...

Posted on
Page
of 4,992
First Prev
/ 4,992
Last Next
  • Sometimes people don't know that you can listen to your phone like this to keep the volume down.

  • This is not helping. But it made my friend laugh.

  • Or even better


    1 Attachment

    • th-2846986310.jpg
  • On my pixel you can just hold the top of the phone to your ear - the same way that you'd listen to someone speak on a call with an old fashioned phone.

  • Anyone know if the stock on Condor's website is available in store? Or do they have it in some warehouse somewhere and I should probably order my trinkets for collection?

  • Warehouse is just south of Tower Bridge - so not too far away.

  • I'm going in the other direction though. I think I'll order to pickup then. Thanks

    Actually it likely won't be moved to the shop in time anyway so I'll just pop in and chance it.

  • Every time I've been in for something they've always had exactly the same bits and pieces available in the shop as on the website. Same prices too.

  • Cheers both

  • I’ve not had that experience. Don’t remember the precise details but the wording on the website was misleading, went there and was told item was at their warehouse.

  • It's no super important. I'm walking past it anyway so if they have it, cool, if not, no drama.

  • Had that with condor brakes calipers before. But paid and were there the next day.

  • Why can't actors act being sick realistically?

  • I dunno, I always projectile vomit green goo when feeling a little under the weather.

  • I reckon it's the volume of vomit that gives it away. An actor can only pack a mouthful of vomit, but proper vomit comes by the stomach-full.

  • Good point.

    I wondered if it was the muscular convulsions combined with the other fluids. Sort of physiological vs psychological reactions.

    Still actors have been acting for a long time so I thought they may have worked something out.

  • What is the best thing to do with the loop thing here?
    Attach it to through the u-lock when locking or buy a seperate padlock for it so it becomes it's own lock?

    I currently use one of these along with the u-lock. The racer lock secures my front wheel to frame, the u-lock secures the frame to object on street. Would the loop thing be an upgrade on the racer lock I have already if I got a decent padlock for it?


    1 Attachment

    • 105975774-img-01-c2022 copy.jpg
  • Use it as additional security/to look harder to break, don't use it as it's own lock because they're like 2mm of wire inside the plastic cover.

  • I have a composite column(?) chart in xls.

    I want to add another bit of data in the form of little dots above the columns which xls normally forces you to have with a line joining the dots.

    What search term am I looking for? Is it adding a Series?

  • OK:

    • D-lock through frame, rear wheel and round a street object.
    • Cable loop through front wheel, one end through the eye of the other end, and then the free eyelet onto the d-lock.

    Better:

    • D-lock through frame, rear wheel and round a street object.
    • Second smaller d-lock securing front wheel to down tube.

    Even betterer:

    • D-lock through frame, rear wheel and round a street object.
    • Second d-lock through front wheel, down-tube and round a street object.

    For my relatively utility bike I do the "OK" version above but only because it's never locked up anywhere for long without it being in my sight. For anything where I was leaving it for hours unattended on the street somewhere I'd be looking at "even betterer" as a minimum.

    Have a look at the street object to check that it's secure:

    • Using a street sign means your bike can be lifted over the top (they unbolt the sign on the post to do this).
    • Thieves have been known to cut Sheffield stands and then put some tape around the cut to make them look fine to use. If you lock your bike to one of these stands then they can steal the bike without needing to make any noise cutting anything and the bike is gone in seconds.

    Separate to the above consider security bolts to make it harder for the saddle/wheels/bars/etc to be stolen.

    Don't use exactly the same place every day, try to have a few variations. Try to lock it up in a busy area although the thieves are quite happy to angle-grind anything even in a busy street.

  • What sumo said.

    I used to run mine through the saddle and front wheel then secured to the D.

  • The cable is the weakest point so that'd get cut rather than a padlock. It's more of a deterrent to opportunists grabbing a wheel than something to stop someone with tools, and the lock itself is to deter people without good tools or time, just whack it through the lock, one loop and itself if you need more length to get it through both wheels if the lock won't go through one.

  • I am a bit more paranoid but I think I need to get one of those grinder resistant locks into the mix, since all those old style ones combined probably only offer a minute of resistance. Or they cut the stand.


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_20230825_190133.jpg
  • Post a reply
    • Bold
    • Italics
    • Link
    • Image
    • List
    • Quote
    • code
    • Preview
About

Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

Actions