Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

I’m sorry, how much???

Excuse me if I'm posting here erroneously, but maybe of interest: I've put up for sale my Saxon Twin Tube cycle from the 1930s here on LFGSS. Search for "Saxon Twin Tube"...

I thought it was a typo, but then realised that there is probably a market for diamond wax.

I'm looking for an early NDS 170mm Stronglight 49D crank, square taper, with French (14x1.25) threading. I'd also consider a full Stronglight 49D double chainset if the price and spec was right: ideally an early one, square taper, 170mm, French threading preferable, ideally with chainrings around 48 or below and low 30s or below. Well-used looking is fine, not looking for pristine, as long as they aren't bent and there aren't any cracks. Anyone got anything?

Maybe pushing the extent of this thread but, anyone got a bike with a spoon brake or knowledgeable about them?

Incredible.

Will you start a restoration thread? I'd be keen to follow.

I’ve got one running on Retrobike: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/late-40s-early-50s-rené-herse-tip-find.471568/

The 49D cranks would be for it. I found a couple of cracks in the NDS crank.

Wow that's some find!

I was asking about spoon brakes because I'm thinking of copying Paul Brodie and building a version of a Starley Giraffe which has one.

However I do not want to use solid tyres and it would seem that spoon brakes and pneumatic tyres won't work together so I might be abondoning the idea of making a spoon brake.

I'd like to stick to some sort of oddball front brake, the rear will be a coaster, so maybe stirrup brakes would work. The brake parts seem to be pretty readily available as are rims to suit. On that subject, SJS stocks chromed steel and painted/powdercoated alloy Westwood rims, I take it either can be used with a brake? Braking probably better on an alloy rim?

Spoon brakes on pneumatic tyres works well enough. Front tyres last a long time, so extra wear from the brake isn’t a major drama. It was pretty common 130 years ago. Spoon brakes reflect the traffic levels and risk assessment approaches of the era.

Chromed rims work well in the dry but are useless in the wet. Al rims have much better performance in the wet.

I have a Stronglight crank puller which you could use.

I also have a 170 left hand 49D , but it's on a bike - I would happily swap for TA.
I also have a LH 49D which needs a helicoil - I can't find it this moment and it's too cold to spend long looking.

Let me know if any of this is helpful.

Hi Chris, yes I'd be interested in either of those if they're French threaded, though I guess it won't matter for the one that needs a Helicoil. As long as it's not going to leave you with orphaned right side cranks. Agree about the cold!

If it helps, I just bought a drive side 49d crank that was sold as french threaded and marked as such on the rear of the crank, but when I got it my British threaded pedal screwed right in no problem, didn't even need any convincing to go in. So I think you may be able to do this the other way around, brit thread to french pedal. Seems solidwhen ridden. My guess is the threads are similar enough and the alloy is soft enough/pedal steel hard enough that it just cuts a thread. +Having said that, when I check it it doesn't look like a new thread has been cut so maybe my crank had been rethreaded in then past?)

I think you may be able to do this the other way around, brit thread to french pedal

Nah, 14mm into 9/16" (14.3mm) is too sloppy to be usable. The only reason you can recut French 1.25mm pitch threads to British 1.27mm pitch is that the diameter difference is enough to make the profiles overlap for long enough to get through a crank.

It sounds as though the best thing would be to find the damaged crank - give me a couple of days.

Thanks. Following.

Anyone in need/want of FB hub/Fiamme sprint rim front wheel before I flog it elsewhere? Its in great condition.

That’s interesting. I need to find some better images of them to see if it’s within my skillset to make one.

Spoon brakes are generally pretty agricultural.

Anyone know or can make an educated guess at what thread diameter/pitch on the axle for this hub will be?

I’d like to get some wing nuts for it (to go on my giraffe project) but don’t really know where to start.

Anyone know or can make an educated guess

I can take measurements when I get home, it will be the same as my Baylis Wiley Continental. I think I might have some wing nuts for them too. My guess is 5/16"-26TPI

Is 5/16" typical front and 3/8" rear? Think these sizes are common enough that a listing for 'front' wingnuts would most likely be 5/16"?

The nuts that you have, you looking to sell?

Cheers.

Is 5/16" typical front and 3/8" rear?

Yes, that's a common pairing for British lightweights. 3/8" both ends is also a thing, so you definitely need to check that what you have and what you get are the same size, and US market favours 24TPI so there's that to look out for too.

The nuts that you have, you looking to sell?

Yes, if they exist they're just cluttering up my parts bin

Think these sizes are common enough that a listing for 'front' wingnuts would most likely be 5/16"?

"5/16-26 wing nut" is a search term which works. The ones in the parts bin are not in great condition and not a matching pair, if I wanted wing nuts on the Rotrax I'd probably snap up the NOS Shimano ones on ebay

Cheers for looking.

The Shimano ones are nice but the shipping makes them pretty pricey.

I like the oil can shape ones but not finding any that are specified as 5/16”, liking the shape of these ones and they are are listed as 5/16” so think I’ll get them.