Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

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  • I did almost exactly the same yesterday with little care, expecting to need to bleed them anyway and they're useable as is.

  • It all depends on how you do the bleed.

    In any case a quick burp after installation usually helps firm the bite.

    Have done Euro to UK swaps and didn't have to do a proper bleed, just a quick burp.

  • quick burp

    What does this look like? Pushing the pistons in to force any air up in to the reservoir?

  • Leave the brakes cable tied on for a night or two.

  • Put the bleed cup on with a little fluid in and repeatedly squeeze the lever, tap the hoses and force the bubbles to the top. If that fails you can tie the levers down for a while but a couple of hours is usually plenty rather than days

  • Is there a nice quality flat mount flat bar caliper/lever combo with a hinged lever available? Needs to work with a 160mm rotor. So far found the very cheap Altus kit or the more expensive Sram S300 option but both require the removal of the grip. Not a deal breaker but keen to know if there's other options out there.

    Very little experience so would prefer a fully bled lever hose and caliper rather than trying to cobble something together. Alternatively i guess i could go with a Deore brake with a post mount caliper.

    Whichever i go for will i need to re-bleed if i shorten the hose?

  • This, key is to not rush it. Take your time and have the hose/caliper pointing up/down when you snip/undo the hose.

    With drop bars, I find what +lynx mentioned about zip tie/toe strap(that's what I use) overnight really helps if a full bleed still doesn't give you your desired bite.

    I've also found reusing olive and barbs are fine.

  • Whichever i go for will i need to re-bleed if i shorten the hose?

    Not it you buy the deore fully bled and follow the instructions linked above:
    Epic Bleed Solutions method for cutting hoses without the need for bleeding

  • Ace, thank you

  • Could you have a “Quick Look™️” at my brakes as they are making an odd noise.
    FFS!


    1 Attachment

    • IMG_4350.jpeg
  • Still loads of life left in that pad, what's the problem?

  • I know! And they only changed them 18 months ago luckily I took some spare pads with me. Strangely it looks like they have never used the rear brake.

  • That's a problem with a sticky piston, not braking habit.

    One side is fine, the other not.

    Also, colour of the 'fine' pads suggest oil contamination too, so do check the rotor.

  • Cheers, I just chucked in the new pads for them and recentered the caliper as it was way off to one side. But I will have a look at it again next week when he rides into work. Seriously the back rotor and pads look like new, other than being filthy that is.

  • Also, there's a possibility that the braking compound just fell off the backing plate and not uneven wear/lazy piston as I first thought.

  • I’ll have a proper look at work tomorrow, the disc wouldn’t even fit in between the pads with the way the caliper was mounted. I’ll give the pistons a good workout. Speaking to him last night it turns out he cleans the brakes weekly I spray the hubs(?) and chain bits with WD40, spin the wheel and drag the brake a couple of times and change through the gears on a Friday evening, ready for Monday morning! Fuck me!

  • Oh deary me...

    Look on the bright side though, at least he's keen on bike maintenance, bit too keen some might say and without the proper knowledge/guidance.

  • Currently have MT4 brakes on our Bullitt but don’t like the plastic parts of the brake handle.

    Yesterday I bled the front brake and while removing the plastic screw on the handle I managed to strip almost all the thread. My old HS33 brakes are all metal, which current Magura models are still using metal bits on the brake handle instead of plastic?

    Would like to stick to Magura as this is the only hydraulic brake brand we currently have across four bikes.

  • which current Magura models are still using metal bits on the brake handle instead of plastic?

    None AFAIK. And if they did have metal leaver bodies they'd probably cost a lot of money.

    Bleed port plug is a sacrificial item - buy a bunch of spares and go lighter on it next time.

  • Did/can happen on motorbike brake Pads and carbon Lorraine had a major issue. By major I mean I and at least 3 local friends had issues with pad material delamination due to corrosion on the metal back plate.

  • On the plastic screw or plastic reservoir body?

  • Looked like a bit on both

  • The time has come to replace the front pads on my Tektro Dorado's, does anyone know if there are any Shimano (or other brand) pads that are compatible? Tektro pad code is Q13RS, cheers.

  • Looks like these might work, I've bought their pads before and they're great for the money, and they do all sorts of compounds:

    https://noahandtheo.co.uk/index.php?_route_=Tektro%20Q11TS%20Resin%20Disc%20Brake%20Pads

    Double check the compatibility against Tektro's super catchy naming system though:

    https://tektro.eu/wp-content/uploads/Tektro-pads-compatibility-AM-20200528-1.pdf

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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Posted by Avatar for Sanddancer @Sanddancer

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