-
Okay, so I’m gonna chim.
Both of you and @MCamb is right.
Sanding down rotor does do the trick, sure it may feel rough and horrid until it start to wear in, it can also contribute to the pads wearing out a tiny bit faster until it wear in with the rotor, performance might not be 100% as it once was, but does the trick.
It’s also doesn’t always work, sometime I’m lucky, other time it squeal and need further sanding.
In our workshop, it’s always better to just quote new pads and rotors if it’s contaminated because we can 100% offer our guarantee that it will work and completed in a timely manner.
On MTB, people aren’t that fussy as long the brake work better, we often sand down the rotor and put new pads but it really a case by case basis.
Mechanics are not cheap, they work on £60/hour (or complexity of jobs), it’s much cheaper at the time to go for a new pads and rotor, and never have to come back until the next service/fuck up.
edscoble-
Agreed. If something is badly contaminated enough to need sanding, you should be replacing everything anyway
-
Mechanics are not cheap, they work on £60/hour (or complexity of jobs)
Had to reread to make sure you were talking about bike mechanics, and I’m still not sure. What shop anywhere pays bike mechanics £480 a day?
TooTallTim
Leshaches
Dot fluid is neutralised with water, add some heat and soap and that's all you need.
Mineral oil is more difficult to clean, but isopropyl is all you need. Sanding just pushes whatever contamination that's on there around the rotor, possible even into the scratches you've just created.
I will die on this hill.