Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Answering my own question here: https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/rleoeg/pad_retention_bolt_instead_of_cotter_pin/

Looks like you gotta use the cotter/split pin unless you tap your own thread. No thanks.

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.SRAM-Level-Disc-Brake_91926.htm

Could you use an r clip instead of a cotter pin for the ease of reuse?

Could you use an r clip instead of a cotter pin for the ease of reuse?

How often are you changing your pads that a 20p split cotter pin is a big deal?

Exactly why I figured it's not worth it. I have some SRAM pad bolts lying around.

Those cotter pins look a bit of a faff, although I haven't tried removing them yet. Will need to pretty soon. I was under the impression that they're a bit more single-use than long term?

As I have lots of r clips from motorbike stuff so I change split pins to r clips when I can not re use a split pin. Brake wise motorbikes use r clips over split pins and the ones that the steel locating rod pin screwed in to alloy bodies cause issues after being left for years corroding

I was under the impression that they're a bit more single-use than long term?

They are. Buy a bag of the the right size, you'll have a lifetime's supply. If you can't bear to throw away 1g of steel every time you change pads, use a clevis pin retained with an R-clip

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These 4 pots for £37 an end aren't the ones I got but look pretty similar and look like a bargain. Lever is flippable so buy two rears, cut one down to be a front.

Lol thanks for the tip. I've got a pair of cotters spare still.

@M_V nice, for 4-pot that's a pretty good deal.

Making the move from cable to hydraulic and checking compatibility of 11s 105 levers with ultegra BR-RS785 calipers? Can the two work together?

(my hypothesis/assumption is yes based on how interchangeable their other components are!)

Just go r7000 throughout a guy on here has a set for sale.
I have 8020 working with grx gears.

pretty much all calipers and levers work with each other in shimano world, you can even get a deore

Amazing, thanks!

When it comes to shroud nuts being tightened up into calipers or levers, how much thread should typically be exposed? I don't have an 8mm crowfoot spanner to torque things up precisely and just go by feel. But I'm always dismayed seeing exposed thread on a shroud nut... The SRAM supplied ones are normally a darker grey or black and so the threads are less visible. The ones shown in the pic are from Aztec I believe, and the silver thread stands out more.

Comparing these with my AXS-equipped bikes - even they have some thread exposed, but only a little. I don't wanna crush the olive and ruin anything.

Cheers dudes.

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Are RX4 calipers significantly better than Force D2 calipers?

I've used Force D1, Rival D1 and RX4 on road and gravel. RX4 do feel the best both in terms of power and modulation. the D1 calipers just feel a bit too on/off for me.

If it is up to torque and doesn't leak then you are all good!

Phew, that's what I thought. Thanks.

Speaking from experience as it happened to me too, will take a photo of it later.

Looking for the most-budget friendly way to end up with a complete 4-pot Shimano brake set with long hoses front and rear (for a cargo bike)?

Thinking two rear M6120 brakeset from Merlin for £100 total then the corresponding right-hand lever for £30 (M6100 I think? Anyone confirm this matches?).

Anyone know if the cheap (Shimano Deore M6120 4 Piston Disc?) calipers that come with the split pins by default are threaded so I can use allen-head pins instead?

Pretty sure they're not threaded

But that's not to say you can't make them threaded:

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/shimano-deore-disk-brakes-not-contacting-rotor-correctly.1015158/#post-12697195

It's safe to tap them, cutting fluid or any oil then 1 turn in half turn back and repeat.

I've got GRX 400 levers and deore MT501 calipers on the way, both with their respective calipers/levers attached and the hoses will need shortening anyway.

Can the Epic Bleed Solutions method for cutting hoses without the need for bleeding still be applied with the GRX lever? My only doubt is the bit where I'll have to reattach the lever, can this be done with the lever and the hose horizontal with drop bar levers? I guess probably easy enough as the hose enters from the back but I've never used hydraulic STIs before.