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• #11677
I have an e copy of this - I’ll try to dig it out.
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• #11678
Would these build into a track wheelset for the velodrome?
https://www.wiggle.com/p/prime-primavera-60-carbon-rim-brake-front-wheel
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• #11679
Looking for new 26" 32h silver rim brake (box section) rims, they seem non-existent? Unless you go the ebay NOS route with prices to match.
Crust do a nice set, but these will cost more than double the price of the bike they need to go on.
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• #11680
Kinlin ADHN/MLD also sold as Halo whiteline for a bit more.
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• #11681
Or do you want wheels rather than rims?
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• #11682
I can build you a set of wheels with silver rim brake rims. What specs are you after on the hubs?
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• #11683
Try spa cycles
I also use 26 in 32 and 36h.
They have exal lx17 for not much. Excellent rim and good wear but narrow for some people at 17mm internal . Mind you John tomac was ok on 15 internal in the day…
Also the ryde Sputnik is wider is also there at 32/ silver. Beefier but reassuring.
Xm25 kinlin also in stock in 32 silver. Wider and lighter again.
Take your pick but leave some for me! -
• #11684
I want to get my rear wheel rebuilt on a new rim (rim brake, old one wore out). I've spoken to my LBS and they've said they can do it, is there any reason to think they'd do a bad job? Don;t know how many wheels they build a year. Not in London so not as practical to use the forum-approved wheel builders.
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• #11685
You’d likely need to name the business to have any chance at all of an opinion on their competence in wheelbuilding. Check reddit or some other local online forum?
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• #11686
That’s a good point. They are very well reviewed on Google. I guess maybe I was wondering what questions I should ask them the ascertain if they’re up to snuff.
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• #11687
.
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• #11688
.
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• #11689
Halo White Line Classic?
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• #11690
maybe just ask to see another wheel they've built and spin it to see if it's true? There's not really many questions you can ask, but it is quite hard to totally fuck a wheel and even if you do it badly it's nothing an hour with a spoke key can't fix. If you'd just swapping a rim, then it's a good opportunity to learn yourself too...
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• #11691
Don;t know how many wheels they build a year
More than you do🙂 If they offer wheelbuilding at all, they're probably fine because they'd quit if they kept getting complaints from customers. 32-spoke wheels for normal size riders are not operating anywhere near their limits unless you're doing North Shore type stuff, so there's plenty of safety factor between adequate and Dymaxion
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• #11692
Anyone recommend a place to get carbon 700c disc rims/hoops from 35/40mm deep with a 23internal and 28h also tubeless
Thanks
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• #11693
I'm not sure if this is the right place this but here goes. I have a front disc hub with some play, it's on a 2nd hand pair of wheels and I think one of the bearings (Drive Side) is dead. Its a DTSwiss 240 and I'm wanting to know if there is a workaround to going to the LBS (there aren't any near me) or buying a very expensive tool for replacing the bearings.
TiA
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• #11694
How big an issue is this ding likely to be? Could I straighten it out at all?
Also thanks for the earlier replies. Re: LBS wheelbuilding.
1 Attachment
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• #11695
Twat the old ones out, twat some new ones in, although proper tools will make it less likely you'll fuck up the bearings or hub shell.
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• #11696
You could improve it by bending it with an adjustable spanner, but it'll never be perfect.
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• #11697
Twat out is well within my technical skill set. However twat in makes me more nervous. Does axle sleeve go in once both sets of bearings are back in?
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• #11698
I'm not sure off the top of my head, but if you twat out a bearing by twatting the axle, you'll need to put said axle back in before twatting in the second bearing, the old bearings make reasonable drifts, but can get a bit stuck depending on the hub design, so maybe use them to get things in straight but pause before they go into the hub shell and find something else to finish the twatting.
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• #11699
Lovely, finally found the relevant vid online, looks doable. Twatteroo.
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• #11700
If you are worried, get an expanding bolt that fits on the inside of the bearing. Then hit the expanding bolt to remove the bearing.
Leave new bearing in the freezer for 24 to 48 hours, then pour a couple of kettles of boiling water on each side of the hub and then the bearings are a little easier to fit.
Jobst Brandt's The Bicycle Wheel is a fine substitute for experience; with a bit of sniffing around you should be able to find the epub for free (Brandt is no longer with us, so IMO it's cool to stiff the copyright parasites).
Sadly, he didn't make it to the point where advancements in materials allowed for durable 16/20h on light rims; I'd have been interested to see if that development would have altered his preferred spec