Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I would drill the front to take the mount.

Same predicament as yours on my Bombtrack, did the same and the bracket flexed down on the back and it pushed down.

Not sure I’m happy drilling a carbon fork crown.

I’m also wondering now if the eyelets on the fork are rack rated? Or just for mudguards?

Dolan GXA, standard fork.

Honestly, get a different fork.

E.g. https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m21b0s29p4877/SPA-CYCLES-Carbon-Gravel-Fork

Ordinarily, I think you have a point Ed!

However I stumbled across Old Man Mountain. It looks like they use a proprietary thru axle (a bit like those fancy carbon rear bikepacking racks?) and a fixing bracket halfway up the fork leg. Expensive, but cheaper than a fork.

I'm going to be running etap on one of these. How can I neatly plug up the gear cable ports? I could get some of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186090897837 but I'd rather something flush with the headtube. Would suguru be suitable?

Nice. I saw you’d bagged this in the classifieds a while ago. The original frame will have come with tapered rubber stops that bung the holes. Have you tried emailing Look to see if they have stock? I’m sure they’d send you some for free

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Oh thanks, didn't realise that. I'll email my local supplier.

Annoyingly turns out mine's bb86 which I didn't bother to check before I bought look zed2 cranks

My partner's Trek has a BB90 bottom bracket which is two loose bearings in a 90mm shell, seated directly in the frame. I have some spare 48/32 Praxis M30 cranks that I want to put on which have a 30mm spindle.

It looks like this doesn't work? 37mm OD/30mm ID/7mm width bearings don't exist/aren't possible? Do I have any options aside from swapping frame/cranks?

maybe bodge in 2 x 61706 on each side? Probably will just buy new cranks though

Annoyingly turns out mine's bb86 which I didn't bother to check before I bought look zed2 cranks

Just about worth selling it and buying a frame to match those super zooty cranks..

Come to think of it, they should never be separated from the frame, like a proprietary seatpost or whatever

I know. I'm very disappointed Look made a top level frame that doesn't fit their silly proprietary cranks!

Got my Wolf Tooth clamp (and immediately noticed the Stanton one is also one of those barrel types, it just goes in through the bottom ooh nurse so you can't see it)

Anyone happen to know the torque rating for a BSP-97 postfix clamp? I'm sure I used to know this but I can't find it written anywhere. https://bbbcycling.com/uk_en/bsp-97-postfix

Assume it's like 2-3Nm given the size of the tiny bolt.

Does anyone here have the skill to remove a stripped bolt (and possibly wedge) from a Redshift Shockstop Stem? A while back , I stripped the bolt that secures the elastomers inside the stem, and it's tricky to remove without damaging and drilling away at the wedge - I think.

I asked Redshift for some tips and this is what they told me,

"There are a few ways to remove a bolt where the head is stripped and one that works well is actually to find a torx or star bit that is similar in size and just lightly tap it into the bolt head with a rubber mallet. You can then back the bolt out slowly.
Another method would be to use a stripped screw tool (this is a bit that has knife edges on it and is meant to remove screws where the head is stripped).
And lastly, one thing you could always do is use a pair of needle nose pliers - and if you can't get good access to the bolt you could always cut away a little of the wedge if needed because that can easily be replaced.

Keep in mind when removing the bolt that it is important to push down slightly on the top of the stem (while it is on the bike) to remove extra force on the wedge bolt and help it better align when it is close to coming out. The +30 is an extreme angle, so you want to be careful and take your time doing this."

Share a pic of the stem bolt, we might be able to help.

Yeah, bit silly of me not to include one

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Sacrificial torx key and Wd-40 sound like a good place to start. If needed, my metal shop could help.

Use plus gas or the WD release agent.

Slightly larger tx bit than the Allen key and the turn gently.

Ally stem and steel bolt, I'd pour a couple of kettles of boiling water over the stem and bolt to see if differential expansion breaks any corrosion between the two

WD release agent

V good point. The fast release penetrant is worth every penny.

It’s like the person that answered your query has never seen the inside of a Redshift stem.

Thanks for all the suggestions peeps. I didn't spray any WD40 in case it ruins the elastomers, although at this stage they're totally sacrificial. @Leshaches where's your shop?

@Ben689908 I know right - how can you have ridden a bike but not seen the inside of a very niche suspension stem?

@Ben689908 I know right - how can you have ridden a bike but not seen the inside of a very niche suspension stem?

He did ask the manufacturer of said niche stem.

I've never noted seeing a redshift stem like that, but the torx thing is an easy way to remove a rounded Allen bolt.

Careful with release agent as that probably will damage the rubber.

To be clear, you don't mean the normal, blue can of Wd40 do you, but the silver one that costs more, or either?

Either, just a warning that the normal WD won't do much imo

Try freezer for a day or two or maybe boiling water to try and get a little expansion/contraction to break the bolt and surround bond.