Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Are you supposed to relieve the edges on stems?

The manufacturer does that for you, either inherently as part of the forming process or by post-forming finishing operations. The size of the edge break needed to go from dead sharp to safe is pretty small, you can feel that it's blunt but it doesn't need to be big enough to see, R>20μm should be plenty. If in doubt, run your thumbnail lightly over the edge, if it's sharp it will plane a bit off your nail.

Sorry if I came across as being odd, just mentioned the lazy way (to me) of getting the right length with out counting links. As the counting links is difficult for me as I don't have the attention span.

Am just talking/going things.

Do renthal still make that stipulation of removing the edged on the renthal fat bars?

I have a Trek FX3 disc 2021 and looking to make it more comfortable and durable on shit roads during the commute.
Is it possible to swap out the 700c wheels to 650b?
I wouldn't be after a deeper tread tyre, just a slightly wider than what the current set up can go to (35c with mudguards).

I always do the "big big, add two" kinda thing when getting the actual length but in this case I don't have a chain to install yet and didn't want to buy a 128 link chain if I only needed 116 or whatever.

I don't know about more durable (my 700C wheels are plenty durable) but it might allow you to fit a bigger tyre and that means you can run it at lower pressure so you get a bit more cushion while you're pushing.

Where is your clearance issue coming from currently? Is it width or height of the tyre that's going to limit you? Wider rims can help flatten out a tyre. Some tyres are more squared off than round and some sit taller, so tyre choice can make a difference to clearance as well.

But I don't see why 650B wouldn't work on that bike. You might limit your tyre choice a bit though.

DT Swiss R 460: is this a decent enough rim for everyday road riding? I'm light ish, will be built to a 24h novatec hub.

DT Swiss R 460: is this a decent enough rim for everyday road riding?

Decent enough if you're looking at paying <£30 per rim for them

Yep, £23 I think. Cheers!

Cross posting from the Canyon thread as maybe some mechanics have encountered this:

Has anyone unstuck a stuck Canyon expander bung?
I want to move it down a touch so I can chop the steerer but it won't move. Seems like other people have had this problem but I'm not really sure the solution without damaging the steerer.

Stupid question, but you have loosened the stem bolt(s), right?

Hah, yeah. That’s something I would forget to do.
Even with the stem off the steerer it’s stuck.

Yeah, there's a trick where you put a bolt through a big bit of flat metal (a headset spanner works well) and lever it upwards. It's been a while since I've done it but I'm pretty sure there's a YouTube video if you don't want to just have a bash.

I have a wheelset with them, I like them.

Are you planning on going tubeless? Might be worth spending a bit more for something a bit better if so as I beleive these are tubeless compatible where other, higher end DT rims are tubeless ready.

I tried setting them up tubeless and it was a bit of a shitemare but tbf that may have been the fault of the tyres as much as of the rims and I gave up very quickly.

Thanks for the feedback. I've got no plans to run tubeless so should be fine!

Another vote for the R460, two sets built no issues, as opposed to forum fav Kinlin… I must be an outlier.

What was the issue with the Kinlins?

I had another set of wheels with Halo Evauras which are branded up Kinlins and thought they were alright too.

I don't know that I've ever really taken umbrage with a rim though so maybe I'm overly amicable!

I guess I had one of those... is it Ambrosia rims(?) that everyone moans about getting tyres on and I did find them really bad.

Lots of swarf around spoke holes and loose inside both rims, think they were the 22s. I also found them more difficult to true than sun/ringle, H son and the aforementioned DTs.

For balance I’ve built up 50+ kinlin rims, never had a problem with their QC.

(NAM) What kind of freehub body is this? Old school Shimano?

1 Attachment

10-speed only Shimano.

10 speed cassettes are narrower than 9 speed so you can't fit a 9 speed cassette (or 11, or anything else), and the taller splines may prevent you doing do anyway - and also block some 10 speed cassettes.

Thankfully rare and only found on a handful of Shimano wheelsets AFAIK.

Thank you! If we were to source a cassette for this what would we need to specifically search for?

I have no hands on experience, but I assume this is accurate:
https://www.bikeforums.net/22585939-post6.html

Question for the hivemind.

How can I make this rack work with my fork which has an eyelet on the rear of the crown, but not on the front? Note the shape of the supplied bracket:

https://pelagobicycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/front-rack_rasket_assembly-instruction_2023.web_.pdf

If my spatial awareness isn't letting me down, I'd need to flip the bracket upside down and a) it might not protrude out far enough over the front wheel and b) will probably end up too low. I think I'm in homemade bracket territory and therefore potentially also in bent/snapped homemade bracket and unplanned endo territory.

Bend the bracket and bolt it to the rear, or get a longer bracket from somewhere if the supplied one won't reach. That bracket isn't taking much load as it's just keeping the rack from tipping.