Home DIY

Yeah festool always too expensive. But I would guess someone building shop interiors on that level might have nice tools.

And as we are on shelf construction, still think that fnp regal is the most cleverest construction ever. Slits plus L strips.

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fnp regal

How does this work?

I can't for the life of me figure out what I'm looking at.

The domino is well worth it as a professional tool. It's one of those tools that most amateurs lust after but the price is enough to make it hard to justify.

Very handy tool to have though. Incredible joint strength and you can assemble and break down as much as you like. I use them with Rafix to make big pieces of furniture that have to be sprayed and delivered in much smaller chunks.

Don’t get me wrong, in an ideal world and all that.

A German design classic!
Hope this picture helps.

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Sorry I was thinking how to do it a home.
FNP does long super cool and so easy to put up!
https://youtu.be/6WfUiJNmI_o?si=NGUef-FPVf1KDVvq

They would be a great tool to be hiring from somewhere. Not sure if there are many outlets for that though.

Not necessarily going to DIY this one but this thread seemed the best place to ask. Looking to level two rooms together in our Victorian terrace: Dinning/middle room + Extension built in the 90s.

Middle room has classic floating floor but extension has a solid floor. Is there a way for me to check the makeup of the solid floor without digging the whole thing out? This room is about 25-30mm higher than the middle room and ideally it would be on the same level as the ground floor so wondering if it could be a case of just taking up the screed level and re-doing it rather than increasing the height of the middle room via additional ply/chipboard.

Hacking apart a box room in the loft, to remove the water damaged plaster (header tank leak some time ago). As I was doing this I’m considering moving the wall back into the eaves a little more to create a slightly bigger box room which will allow a bigger skylight (as there are no windows!).

But, then it occurred to me that the vertical studs might be loading bearing for roof support. Is this a thing? And if so would moving them back a foot or two make any difference. Below the studs is not a load bearing wall.

I'm not a structural engineer but I'd have thought rafters have a maximum unsupported span based on their size and the roof loading and making that bigger without doing some maths would be unwise.

vertical studs might be loading bearing for roof support. Is this a thing?<

(confidently) Yes

moving them back a foot or two make any difference<

out of my remit,
but the supports look like they've been modded moved from what you'd expect - thing is it sounds like an idea good enough to pursue ..

Anyone replaced sealed double glazing units themselves?

Previous owner smashed just the internal pane of the existing unit and never did anything to fix it. I'd like to get it replaced. Looking online it actually doesn't look hard at all, and needs minimal specialist tools. It also looks like you don't need a FENSA certificate or anything like that. I'll get some quotes to have someone supply and fit the glass, but I suspect it's something that might be well worth doing myself. It's a small pane (300 x 390 mm) but is leaded in a diamond shape on the outside, which limits the amount of online companies that will do a replacement, but I've found 2 that look fine.

Just looking for anyone to chime in and let me know if it's as straightforward as I hope, or point out a load of really good reasons I'm better off paying a pro to do it.

Ok, thanks. Sounds like more faff than its worth to gain a few feet of room. Glad I stopped and thought about it as I had the multi tool out ready to chop them!! 😂

I have done it a bunch of times to fit and then remove a sealed unit with hole for a cat-flap. Super easy.

Good stuff! I'll wait for the quotes to come back, but will feel confident taking it on myself if they want more than 30 quid to fit them.

Festool Domino jointer?
Not often LFGSS recommends the budget option:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m78BZHu-uuA&t=919s

Is this so? My understanding was that they are both ways of simplifying loose tenon joinery (and within that, that dominoes are geometrically superior due to width, snugness of fit etc but that they are essentially using variations of the same mechanics to join?)

(Not being snippy - hoping to be set straight by someone with more knowledge than me if I’m miseducated!)

No you are right.
Biscuits do add strength to an end grain joint and would add some strength in this use case. However I don’t think many people would just glue a shelf to the uprights of a bookshelf. The fact they swell up in their pockets mean they hold the sides and shelves together and help stop them walking apart. I just wouldn’t trust them with the weight of books etc in a downward pressure. But I’m up for being corrected myself, every day is a school day.

Cheers. That's much more clear.

I am fitting a pole in a small utility room, to hang wet washing off and the like.

I need the pole to span from wall to all at exactly 90 to ensure it is the right length and that it lands correctly in the wall fittings.

I have a lazer level which will make sure it is vertically level, but trying to find a way to make the pole perpendicular to both walls and level is thrashing my head.

Anyone got any pro tips?

I’d be confident standing on a 400x400 shelf with three biscuits on two or three sides. Shear strength is underestimated most of time. The shelves are small, unless they’re being loaded up with vinyl or lead ornaments biscuits will be fine.

That said, if one owns a router already rabbets are only marginally more work and will be very strong.

Use a set square? (Or 2)
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-rafter-square-7-177mm-/780ky

Wouldn't that require the wall I am fixing to to be plumb?

I am probably over thinking this