• Converting a though axle hub to bolted?
    My thought is
    Pop out the end caps and replace them with top hat style spacers with an internal diameter of 10mm and an external diameter to match the hub bore that meet in the centre of the hub. Then have the thicker part at an external diameter of 20mm and a thickness of whatever is needed to get to 100mm or whatever is need for the fork/frame spacing. Then use a long m10 bolt remove the head and cut a thread into the end to bolt it together with nuts on each end.
    A stupid idea or not?
    I may have access to a technician for a few hours in the new year as they set up the new lathe.

  • Pop out the end caps and replace them with top hat style spacers with an internal diameter of 10mm and an external diameter to match the hub bore that meet in the centre of the hub. Then have the thicker part at an external diameter of 20mm and a thickness of whatever is needed to get to 100mm or whatever is need for the fork/frame spacing. Then use a long m10 bolt remove the head and cut a thread into the end to bolt it together with a nuts on each the other end

    Your top hat spacers just need to register in the bore, the hub is expecting to be squished by the stock through bolt and should be equally squished by your new bolt. If they meet in the middle, the hub will have undesirable end float on your top hats.

    Using a nut on each end of a stud is fine, but a bolt with its head intact is better. Definitely don't behead a bolt and thread the soggy end, it's more work for the lathe operator than just making a stud from raw stock.

  • Awesome! A bolt works even better for me too, I just thought it would look more normal. Good too know the spacers don’t need to touch. I can now see what you mean about float. Now to convince them to do it, instead of just turning up a random thing of no use like normal.
    Cheers chap.

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