Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Braided is a bit tougher in a crash, but that's less likely to happen on a drop bar bike than a MTB. Yes, braided can be little trickier to bend, so it's not ideal for internal routing. It's also usually a bit thicker so might not fit through any frame ports, and it's more difficult to trim to length compared to regular hose

Has anyone had any problems from using a cassette lockring on a centre lock disc? I know it's smaller but the centre lock lockring wasn't screwing in easily

Looking to fit some qr adapters onto DT Swiss hubs.

I have one pair setup fine. I’m looking to bring another set of wheels with DT Swiss hubs into play and swap between the two, but I can’t seem to source the exact same size qr adapter on the non drive side. The one I’ve ordered is slightly too deep compared to the old one so the wheel doesn’t sit in the frame with the same brake alignment etc, it’s also a squeeze to get the wheel into the frame with this one so it must be wrong. But all the other qr adapters I can find look the same online. They have two lips on the end instead of one, which my first set of wheels has.

Am I missing something?

I may have asked this before, but how do you get dual pivot brake callipers to separate again after you've pulled the lever? Is there a knack? There's always a knack, isn't there?

Let go of the lever...?

A bit of a flush through with lube on the pivots always helps

Let go of the lever...?

It works!

Ta. I'll give that a whirl.

Hi all,
Any idea what this oval thing is on the chain stay? Thanks in advance!!
Frame is a KTM Revelator..
Edit - I think it’s some sort of protector!
I wondered if it was a repair 🫤🤦‍♂️😆

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I think there was originally a metal wear plate set into that recess, to prevent damage to the carbon if the chain dropped between the inner ring and the stay

This is a different version, but the clearest pic I could find of an intact wear plate

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Ok thank you for confirming - may be missing that plate. Doubtful I’ll be able to source one now.

While I’m here - with the 6870 di2 set up will there be a 2nd junction box above the BB in the lower part of seat tube? I mean, I’m guessing I’ll have to remove the BB to get to it..? I’ve removed battery from seatpost but there’s still wires not pulling through from the battery and mechs

Thank you for confirming. Do you think it’s worth trying to replace it with something?

Do you think it’s worth trying to replace it with something?

I'd probably slap a helicopter tape patch on it

with the 6870 di2 set up will there be a 2nd junction box above the BB in the lower part of seat tube?

Traditionally, there's a Junction B at that location

Thanks very much.

Good to see you’re still on here sharing your knowledge. I think I came across you if it’s the same ‘tester’ over 10 years ago!

I think I came across you

Lucky you.

Lucky you.

Lucky me🙂

Often times the B junction is in the bottom of the downtube rather than the seat tube but result will be the same

Given the price of Di2 wiring bits, I'm surprised I'm the only one I know of who only bought the minimum number of EW-50s to get plugs for levers and derailers... It's just wire. Pretty damn fancy wire, but it doesn't need to be anywhere near that tough, and waterproofing isn't rocket surgery. The B junction doesn't do anything a couple of blobs of solder can't...

Pretty damn fancy wire, but it doesn't need to be anywhere near that tough

Have you met the general public?

It has to withstand the percussive maintenance of the lowest common denominator

Given the price of Di2 wiring bits

As against the price of a solder station, a hot airgun, some adhesive lined heat shrink, your own time and the downtime every time a solder connection dies from vibration? I'm all for being a hacker, but in most cases is strictly for the lols because the mass produced solution is actually cheaper.

If you're patient you can get the cables on ebay for more reasonable prices.

That said, I've cut and soldered two genuine cables to make internal Di2 happen on a non-compatible frame and they've not failed after several years and thousands of miles.

Pretty sure the number of folks who'd contemplate rolling their own loom, who don't already have the necessary kit, would be damn close to zero. Dropping a grand and a half on derailers, shifters and an A junction and battery left me rather reluctant to blow any more dough; in my case DIY was totally worth the time, and it was also fun.

In addition to tinkering tightarses, full-on gram-chasing weight weenies might also be tempted, given it's a tad lighter.

And it's a bike, not a 20t hydraulic hammer. Your soldering skills must blow chunks if you'd be worried about vibration.

Speaking of, my loom is made from single-insulated wires (probably Teflon, judging from how annoying it was to strip) harvested from better-quality USB cables, plaited with fuzzy twine, and that trick has been successful in preventing any buzzing or rattles.

If you're patient you can get the cables on ebay for more reasonable prices.

Obsolete USB cables = $0
Soldering iron and heatshrink I already own = $0

Three short EW-50s required for my setup: one for the pair of plugs for the derailers, another for the shifters, and the third for the battery and to be grafted onto the charger. The A junction is gutted and hidden inside the stem, which has a little hole plugged with hot glue that looks like a LED, showing the light from the actual LEDs, and the mode/set button is remotely mounted under the back edge of one of the hoods. My Di2 is as invisible as the semi wireless one.

Although I have to concede that it's fiddly as fuck between the steerer and stem; if I want to separate the two I have to unsolder a join under the top cap, since any sort of plug there just won't fly.

Sounds like we're all paying for the convenience then.

totally worth the time, and it was also fun

Worth it because fun.