Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

let us know if it works

nah also microshift and sunrace

The sunrace ones are alright.

Don't get the black ones, they seem to shed their coating immediately and make everything messy as fuck.

Weird. I've got a Oneup V2 dropper on my Stanton too and it's been good. Have used it for about a year. It's a shorter 150mm and an older Sherpa made of 853, don't need as much clamp force maybe.

Mine's the newer but cheaper version so perhaps the seat tube tolerances are a bit sloppier?

The OneUp, when installed into the Spark (with a shim to take it to 31.6?) seems fine. It's the combo with the Stanton that is the problem.

Do you shim it? Steel tubes often need a shim.

Well, both bikes will be shimmed in the end, probably.

I'm waiting on a 30,9 to 27,2 reducer to test a 27.2 dropper my LBS guy has in the Stanton.

More like a aluminium can shim than a real one.

Well, now that I've moved the OneUp, I don't have a post close enough to the right diam. to test coke can shims. The point of moving the OneUp was that I might be able to get it working in the Scott and so only need to buy 1 new dropper post rather than two.

Stupid droppers.

Stupid bikes.

Truedat.

Aren't you a skier now anyway :)

Anyone got a spare Lyrik air spring they don't need anymore? I sold all mine, now need one back to rebuild some forks to sell. Unless anyone wants to buy some red Lyrik Ultimate 29, without an airpsring, so you can choose your own travel length?

I could probably throw in some brand new foam rings to sweeten the deal

Presumably a C1/B1 air spring? I can have a look in the shed. Any preferred travel?

Yes please, either or. A 150 or 160 would be ideal, I think that's what they originally were

I have a Reba RL solo air 120mm and would like to reduce the travel to 110 or 100 to improve climbing handling. Is this easily possible? My understanding is the bottomless tokens just change feel and not the effective A-C? Do I need to buy a new fork?

You will need a new airpsring to change the travel, they're different lengths for different travel. Correct, tokens just change air volume inside, which changes the progression at the end. They will slightly soften the initial travel too. A-C will change because you're putting a different air shaft in

Why do you think 10mm shorter will improve climbing handling?

It will, a bit. But not a lot.
Sliding the saddle forward on the rails would likely have a bigger effect

The hope was it would lower the front end, and my understanding was that there'd then be a touch more weight to keep the wheel down/improve traction. The frame was designed with an axle to crown of 505mm and a 120mm reba is 526mm. I was advised this would be fine by the seller (custom waltly frame made for him) and it is broadly fine, but I'd like to find a better balance, so I guess will it actually make a discernable difference or do I just adjust my riding style?

I'll try this tomorrow on the same climb that I find it overly twitchy on.

I honestly don't think it'll make much if any difference. Position and skill will make far more. As noted, moving saddle forward and moving yourself forward, standing and leaning body as needed, to weight where needed. If the front wheel is lifting, 10mm lower isn't going to stop it doing so. Your riding style will. Watch a few videos of people rising up trails and see how they move. I can climb better on my 140mm bike than my 120 and same again to 100.

I think it's adjusting to the new position after being on full sus for a few years and going back to HT, butnitnwas never an issue on longer travel HTs now I come to think of it. Back to school for me.

Climbing on a full Sus is so much easier, you don't need to 'work' the bike anywhere near as much as a hardtail, which you have to really work.
Makes sense your rusty! Enjoy the workout.