Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Hey,

I just swapped my handlebars and stem on a bike and I'm failing to tighten the topcap into the expender plug. The top cap & expender are spinning around without getting tight :(

Video to illustrate as I'm not very good with words: https://streamable.com/d52eab

Any idea on what's going on and how to fix?

Cheers

Looks like when you unscrewed it, the expander unscrewed rather than the cap. So half of your expander is probably somewhere at the bottom of your fork steerer.

Yep, that's what I realized right after posting.
Now I need to figure out how to get out the locking ring without damaging the steerer... ugggh

Definitely this.

Flip the bike upside down and the bottom part should just drop out if it is not wedged on the fork crown.

It's a delicate setup, you dont wanna overtighten it as carbon cracks, got access to a torque wrench? If not, time to source one.

The bottom part won't come out as the locking ring is stuck onto the steerer.
Yeah I have a torque wrench and used it :/

Edit: Got it out, will change the type of plug, i hate this one

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This is on A LOT OF ASSUMPTIONS AND MIGHT NOT WORK, proceed at your own risk.

Possibility that the bottom bit has been installed upside down? Asking as the bit with the splits usually faces downwards.

In any case, there should be a wedge nut, is that loose and rattling about? If not, it might be stucked at the bottom part of the bung.

If so, remove the top cap from the upper part of the bung, try to reinstall the top part of the bung onto the nut then tap the whole assembly gently and hopefully this releases the nut at the bottom then screw the top cap bolt in (without the top cap) and try to drip or ease the bung out.

Thanks a lot! I actually managed to rotate it with a thin plastic tyre lever and then finished removing it with my finger. Those years of rock climbing coming handy haha

You might be right on the upside down bit, I can't remember as it was a while ago but I have a tendency to work on my bikes late at night and end up doing stupid things :]
In any case, I think i'll use another type of expander from now on.

Yeah, those expanders blow chunks.

Answered - 10x26tpi

Hive mind, mate has snapped his axle on an old school Campagnolo rear wheel.

Anyone knows what axle is needed? M10x1 or 10x26tpi?

Don't have the wheel with me so can't check the thread on the current axle hence the post here.

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Can't remember, but if I had to guess, I'd go with the Italians using metric

Disagree with the British way of cabling though, left front frees up the right hand to downshift into a lower gear while slowing down.

Back to front brake only, get a lot of 'Do you not flip forward when you brake?'. Nope!

if I had to guess, I'd go with the Italians using metric

And that's how they get you. Campag decided to fuck with everyone by going for the weird hybrid of 10mm × 26 threads per inch

I have seen several people borrow your polo bike and go over the bars!

Latex tubes don't hold tight pressure for more than a few days, that's the trade off. Weight, supple ness vs regular butyl. It's normal.

Yes I'm well aware. I've made the silly decision to use latex tubes on my commuter and I can't go back 😅

Is this
https://www.wiggle.com/p/shimano-xt-disc-hub-front-m756
an M756 XT the better front hub to convert to a bolt on fixed rear hub?
Cheers ta.

HB-M756 is the one that's easy to convert, you just need a longer M10×1 axle and some spacers.

Perfect, thanks Tester.
I’m 99% sure that’s what I’ve been offered in a 27.5 wheel. I’ll get them to double check.

User error.

Bike's fine though;)

How terrible would a 26inch wheel fork with 376mm a-c likely look / feel compared to a 390mm a-c 700c which is the current fork? Rake is the same on both forks. #frankenbikeplanning

I’d be worried about the bb height and maybe the headtube angle.

Will you be using a 700c wheel in the shorter fork (if it fits) or would you be dropping wheel size too?

Disc or rims brake?

Look at Thorn fork, they have this with 410mm a-t-c

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/forks/48-offset-a-650b-26-inch-thorn-nomad-mk3-steel-fork-british-racing-green-imron/

Or this with 390 a-t-c but need 650b rather than 26”

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/forks/46-700c-650b-thorn-st-700-650b-steel-fork-gunmetal-imron/

This might actually be a bit better;

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/forks/thorn-discovery-531st-26-inch-dlr-fork-1-18-inch-threaded-155-mm-steerer-with-48-mm-thread-cobalt-blue/

A-t-c 384mm, the offset mean it’ll handle a front load well (like basket, rack etc.)

I’d be worried about the bb height and maybe the headtube angle.

Yes I thought these would be main effect, 14mm though shouldn't be huge change?

Will you be using a 700c wheel in the shorter fork (if it fits) or would you be dropping wheel size too?

I could try both options, if 700c fitted.

Thanks, it is disc brake. In a nutshell I'm replacing Surly LHT fork so partner has dropouts for Swytch to be an option. The thru axle fork (and wheel) will be spare, or if she decides she doesn't want Swytch afterall the dropout fork will be spare. Considering if pairing the fork with pompino could make a fun frankenbuild, that's my current line of thinking.