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I don't usually bother with spring links and (touch wood) I haven't had any failures so far.
You don't need to if you're just joining a chain once. I like them for changing gear, which with the short track ends on the T3 often means changing chain length. Also makes it quick and easy to take the chain off for cleaning. If you're going to rivet your chain rather than using a master link, just do it in a different place every time and you have way more cleaning cycles than you could ever need without punching the same rivet twice 🙂
gbj_tester
Old Style Chains
As Tester says all chains used to have pins which projected a little way beyond the side plates, and this is true for 3/32" as well as 1/8". I prefer to stick to this type for my own use.
My method for splitting/ joining is to use a Reynolds 'Elite' chain tool (pic below) which pushes the pin just clear of the side plate so that the whole male link can be removed (just as if it were a spring link).
To rejoin I use a 'dimple' punch (see pic) to refit the side plate and then, supporting the chain on something solid, I give a few sharp taps to the pins of that link to spread them a little.
I don't usually bother with spring links and (touch wood) I haven't had any failures so far.