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With BB7s I just pull the cable tight, with the lever arm in the fully rested position and clamp the cable.
This.
If there’s too much movement, then the non moving pads is too far from the rotor and need to be adjusted closer, like very barely touching the rotor.
If it’s already close to the rotor, turn the moving pads as close as you can.
The power won’t come straightaway, it take a dozens of ride for it to bed in nicely and it will squeal until it die down.
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This is the fundamental problem with BB5s where using a cable length adjuster to adjust for pad wear ends up reducing mechanical advantage at the brake.
TBF it was just to take up the cable slack, BB5 advantage is that the body is one piece and stiffer.
edscoble
@rotten_dog
In my experience with BB7s this would make the braking force worse. The lever arm on the caliper only has so much travel before the length of the lever arm is reduced, thus reducing braking power. This is the fundamental problem with BB5s where using a cable length adjuster to adjust for pad wear ends up reducing mechanical advantage at the brake.
With BB7s I just pull the cable tight, with the lever arm in the fully rested position and clamp the cable. I never touch this again, you want the full leverage throughout the brake lever travel. Then adjust pads.