Home DIY

He’s doing tile, replacing the carpet.

No, mine were cheap as chips. I thought they were from Screwfix, but they only have posh ones.
Similar to these from Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/POWERTEC-71423-Tracksaw-Track-Clamps/dp/B07Z659LTW/?th=1

Don't get the green bosch one. It's too fucking sensitive.

Can I use decorator's calk to fill the nail holes in skirting?

I'd use regular filler, topped off with fine surface filler. Easier to get flush as it's not so "sticky" on your tools

Cheers.

These skirting boards are going to be such a shit task.

I can get my OH to share the painting, but they have zero patience for prep so all the tapping in of proud nails, hole filling and sanding back is on me. At least we bought primed ones!

Any recommendations for tile paint?

I've tried a search of the thread but it seems to just bring up any posts with the words tile or paint in, which it turns out is quite a lot.

Generally don't do it! Tiles of what and where ( condition and any previous coatings)? But a way forward can be owatrol esp then bullseye123+ x2coats then top coat & if w/b potentially add a polyvine varnish..

A job I've been putting off is finishing off the extraction from the cooker hood. The last bit to do is drill a 150mm hole in the fascia and route the ducting pipe through it.

The reason I've been putting it off is that to get the hole in the right place I can't see any other way than to take the fascia off. I don't know how to do it, and don't fancy damaging it in the process. Can someone advise how this is probably fixed on? There are little white fixings by the looks of it, but no idea what they actually are! Advice welcome!

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Ours are... rustic and the design committee hasn't seen fit to grumble

Fixings are plastic head nails, no? Easy to pop off, but fascia can bend beyond its elastic limit pretty easily (or does every time I touch it...)

For the hole, start with a pilot hole, then you can find the scribe diameter of the inside duct to the outside.

I used this - my bathroom was generally ok but pink and floral. It’s not the first job to do on the house, so i wanted it to last a year or two. I painted it grey with this brand, and then used a white grout pen to make the grout lines white again. It was easy and looks fine, most people don’t notice it’s been painted. It’s lasted fine so far - not my ideal situation but as a medium-term fix I’m happy

It's for a tiled window sill, it's got original 1940s tiles which have gone an unpleasant nicotine yellow, but we need a quick solution so we can have shutters fitted.

I don't think I could make a window sill that would look good, but painted white tiles would be fine.

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All that jazz I said would be over kill, think your just after a tin of goop more like what @t.o. suggested or possibly a multi surface paint

Lime is wild - I did a SPAB field trip this year - we put chalk in a kiln - cooked it to 1000 degrees - then put it in a trough (once cool) then slaked it ( sprinkle with water) it starts going bonkers -cracking and steaming and getting v hot. Then sieved it and mixed with sand and water and built some walls. The whole point of solid masonry / lime walls is if they are built right they do let the water in but then back out again. The lime pointing is a sacrificial layer that needs redoing every so often. Inside a an old stone building lime plaster with keim mineral paint - is what you do.

I’m in the process of taking this wall out from the back of my garage. I’ve done some research and apparently it’s not a supporting wall. I still feel like I should brace it in some way. It’s about 4 metres wide. Other than an rsj which seems like overkill what are my options

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Remember to allow a slight fall to the duct so that any condensing moisture runs out not back in

Buy the gloop! Will be reet

For nail heads, if I couldn't be arsed filling and sanding, I'd just use caulk and a wet finger (I usually have a big tub of wipes, use that to clean the caulk of my finger, which then wets it in the process to keep smoothing).

Cheers. I did a few of the easily visible ones with caulk as I was blending in some shamfers in the skirting and will review this evening.

I should have taken proper before and after pics of the skirting. The floor fitters just left the skirting protruding from the door architraves which looked really shit Imo. In fairness Idk if that falls under their remit rather than a decorator's.

I used a Stanley blade to cut the mdf (another plus of primed mdf vs real wood) and am quite pleased with how much neater it is.

My OH said they'd never noticed. Which along with the "oh yeah" for the radiator made for disappointing feedback for two of my evenings over the weekend.

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That would very much bug me.

Tiling a hallway. Victorian terrace. 'Original' pine boards. What's the process?
Ply over pine (screwed down?) Then tile (with some kind of flexible adhesive? recs?)
There are two doors coming off it into an knocked-through/open plan living room thing. So thresholds will be a shit show (based on added height of ply and then tiles). In time I'd like to put something down on the living room as well which is currently the same board. No idea what or how.

How DIYable is the tiling? Presumably putting ply down and then some kind of clip together wooden flooring will make it feel pretty solid to walk on?

Anything I should pay attention to in prep (caulk over the screws and gaps for example?) Anything I'd want to do before putting a floor down? I won't be doing underfloor heating etc I don't think. Any foam in the cavity? What about future access for wiring/plumbing?

If you're still SE-way, and you end up happy with the work, would you mind sharing contractor details? Looking to get quotes for similar job in our front room, no idea what sort of ballpark we should be looking in....

My own approach would be lifting the floorboards, lay 18mm ply or maybe OSB, then a mat designed to minimise movement in the substrate and tile over the top.

OK, thanks, that sounds like something - is that to keep height low? Or for a better end result (possibly both) and what kind of mat are you talking?

Something like this: https://www.tilemasteradhesives.co.uk/anti-fracture-mat/tilemaster-anti-fracture-mat ?

And does this sound achievable for an idiot?