Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

Honestly, they’re pretty vague on that side of things hahaa.

You get to pay for their fancy website and booking system.

Wyn Masters shredding my local trails.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CzQt3vqB4Ur/

Was very surprised to hear there was no water in Surrey today, when it seemed like all the water in the entire world was contained in the puddles at Peaslake.

I managed to get my Pike back together with a new damper bladder, new o-rings where possible and what send to be a decent bleed on the damper. I was going to pinch a seal head off one of the damper rods I bought but I realised why they are different, they are for the 3 damper and I have the 2. The 3 gets bleed from the top, through the centre of the adjusters so the seal heads lack the bleed port that the one on the 2 has so I just refused they old one with a couple new o rings.

There was no oil leakage when I was cycling the damper out of the fork and nothing has dripped or peaked with the fork sitting the right way up for a few days.

I’m off on holiday on Saturday so I’m banned from doing any mtbing incase I break any bones and we have to cancel again so actually using the fork will need to wait until I get back.

On my Fox fork, the lock out is a lock out, on the Pike, turning the dial round to ‘Firm’ didn’t and still doesn’t provide a full lockout, just ramps the damping right up, is that right or should it be fully locking out?

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SRAM (and a lot of the USA apparently) are against a completely solid lockout. The 3-pos will have a more solid firm position, and the cartridge for Scott Twinlock equipped bikes is a proper lockout, but I think all the 2-pos ones are as you describe.

Mine is three position, open-pedal-firm I believe they are labelled.

It’s reassuring that it’s probably not meant to fully lock though. Thanks.

No point having full lock out on anything other XC race forks (even then it's questionable now with the increase in garnliness of the courses). Pike isn't an XC race fork, so....

Do I remember someone on here running AXS with Shimano cassettes, how was it? Worth the expense? I'm considering trying it, because SRAM shifting is pretty shocking under load. I'm already dealing with less than ideal 12spd chainlines without each shift sounding like the Titanic's hull breaking in half
Hope's new chainring makes it a bit easier to switch back again if I ever wanted to

New axs shifts better under load than when soft pedalling. It’s amazing.

What if you ride for an hour or two to get to the bastard hills?

Oh wait, MTB thread, ride for an hour or two, LOLz.

Think there's a few people running a SRAM/Shim combo - skinny and dammit maybe?

I am, previous (non-Transmission) gen AXS mech and shifter on Shimano block/chain/chainring.

Works perfectly and shift under heavy load - quite interested to compare it to the all-SRAM system on the new bike, but that's only got 7 gears so not really a complete comparison.

You use the pedal setting :p

It’s firm enough.

I won't be able to put T-type on my bike because it's about 6 years old. Might give the hybrid setup a bash and see what happens

I'm running (non-Transmission) GX AXS mech and shifter with SLX cassette/chain/crankset. It's really rather good.

I had the normal AXS on my Epic but got a decent deal on a T-Type groupset.
The T-Type shifts incredibly well under load with my ham-fisted riding but the normal AXS wasn't exactly awful either.

If anyone's looking to upgrade to AXS I've got the GX kit off my old bike that'll be going in the classifieds when I get around to it.

I'm sure most of mine is down to weird chainline issues, but oddly it's only really started recently. I have boost rear spacing, but with an 83mm BB shell. My cranks give me a 56.5 chainline with a standard non-boost chainring, so I respaced the BB to give me what should be a 54mm chainline, which is close but not ideal. Hanger is straight, new jockey wheels actually made the noise worse in lower gears, so I thought I might try my luck with a quieter, better shifting Shimano setup

Or just not pedal anywhere.

I've owned a full bouncy Scott for almost a year and haven't ridden it because reasons. I'll let you know, one day, what the pedal setting rides like on the road.

Tell you what, lend it to me, I'll tell you!

I think Scott stuff does tend to have full(ish) lockout compared to stock RS/Fox stuff.

Folks who buy Scott bikes are serious etc

Folks who buy Scott bikes are serious

LOLz

Seriously empty wallets post-purchase

Is there any MTB that doesn't leave wallets empty post post purchase with the constant replacement cycle for the bitz?

Yep, both suspension brands supply special 3-pos cartridges that fully lock out.

There was a tiktok that I sadly can't find ... The Louis Theroux sample ...
My money don't jiggle jiggle, it's gone (cuts to ful sus)