Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

If you can't see the threads or non threaded area, I imagine there's a stem in the way that'll give it away.

If it's from bad pictures we might need to see them.

Thanks very much for the detailed reply! I think deep drop is needed because it's on a bike running 32 mm tyres (link). LBS is proposing some Shimanos as a replacement, I think they are R451s but I'm not sure if those have enough clearance...

Measure.

Does anyone here do, or know a reputable place who can re-cell ebike batteries? I may have asked this before but have forgotten. My wife's Dawes battery is barely holding charge and she'd like to have it fixed rather than buy a new battery

There's a guy on my business park, but I'm not sure he's reputable, there was a large collection of cells left outside his unit that someone apparently noticed steaming in the rain, he does give me somewhere to send all the deliveroo guys though, and the insurance money might've been worth it had things gone worse.

Yeah, not him then

Probably for the best, I don't think the postage and packaging would be safe either

Not my bike, doing some remote diagnosis!

That is it no idea, came part as a purchase of bits. So wondering if there is anyway to advertise to sell.

Will re inspect and see.

if there is anyway to advertise to sell.

Pictures and looking at the steerer for threads, no threads is threadless, worth measuring diameter, especially if threaded, and steerer length as people will definitely ask for at least those things.

I think they're trying to identify the fork that is threadless, not identify whether it is threadless. I may be wrong.

That would make more sense, as would photos.

Hi, I am considering buying a used rear wheel with a spacing of 120mm for the rear dropouts. The seller says he can change the axle and then I would have a 126mm spacing, which would suit me better. I could then have a 7-speed freewheel (screw on).

Is it really that simple? Simply change the axle to accommodate a different frame dropout spacing?

Yes and no, technically the wheel would required to be dished too.

Thank you!

I assume the change of width won't necessarily mean the spokes will need to be replaced, just tightened or loosened differently.

🤞

What’s the best cost effective (cheap) mtb 1x wide range derailleur, cassette and shifter set up. It’s for a shopper, dog bike, so I want reliable not trick and I don’t care how many speeds it is either. I’ve got an 11 speed wheel, but I’ve also got spacers. Did I say I wanted cheap?

MicroShift 1x8 setup but have a look around and you might find something better.

Also IIRC +edscoble managed to push 40t on the rear using a regular Altus RD on his FX2, so that might be another option.

Shimano 8 speed 11-40t sprocket and RD-M3020 derailleur, if you have shifter, and chainset.

They’re rated for 40t sprocket, might be more cost effective to buy a cheap MTB groupset like the M5100 that can be brought for under 150

Cheers both, I’ve just found an 8 speed cassette in the parts bin and I think there’s an old friction, band on shifter in the shed. I’ve also spotted m3020 s for £14 from wolf. It’s to try something out before I commit to spending real money.

M3020 is the latest Shimano derailleur that can do 40t sprockets however won’t have the chain retention of a clutched derailleur, but for city riding it work fine.

The worst it’ll see is a bit of tow path and I’ve got an N/W chainring and the Acera is Russ Less Pedalled favourite RD so I’ll give it a go. Thanks!

Sorry to be a pain, but will a Shimano Tourney, SL-TX30-7R, 7 Speed shifter work with an Acera M3020 Rd with a 7 speed cassette?

Yup.