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• #42777
I'd probably go Dulux Easycare Washable & Tough. Depending how bad the paint is you could use a cheaper Dulux trade underneath.
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• #42778
No. Matt is hell, and I’m a fan from an aesthetics perspective, just not it high traffic areas.
I’m loving Valspar satin. -
• #42779
Deluxe do one called diamond shine i think that's apparently tough as fuck and is a wb.
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• #42780
Put some shelves up ;)
Try threading a M4 screw in to it. If it bites, wind it in a bit more then gently tap the screw head with a hammer. This should start to straighten out the wings that pull it tight against the inside of the wall. You'll then be able to pull the head forward and chop it off with a multi-tool or similar. You can then tap the body inside of the wall.
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• #42781
Why is matt hell? For getting a good finish? We want to use dead flat for our bedroom. Error?
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• #42782
Turns out it was a drywall anchor, and let me tell you what, it didnt want to come out.
For those playing at home, its an M6 thread, which seems large, but I dont know if these are for pictures or shelves. Either way, Im chuffed the first one is out, Im going to get a longer bolt as this didnt seem to straighen it enough. The remaing hole looks a bit like a face, which is fun.
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• #42783
for our bedroom
The washable dulux will be fine, but hydrophobic vinyl wrap will be the most practical.
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• #42784
We've removed a bit of wall that covered the end of our kitchen units. We've sourced a replacement end panel which I need to fit.
What's the best way to do this? I was initially thinking of various solutions, but wondered if using something like Sticks Like Shit would be easiest. No screws or fixings, etc. I mean will I need to remove it? Or should I stop being so lazy and just screw from the inside of the other cupboard?
Also any tips for trimming it down neatly?
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• #42785
Bedroom is fine, but it’s prone to scuffs and marks so not ideal for high traffic areas such as hallways.
We have the most matt matt little green do in our bedroom which is fine. -
• #42786
I'm pretty sure I used something like Sticks like Shit and then a few small screws inside the other cupboard to hold it in place (they were probably unnecessary). I guess it may be an issue if I ever want to change the doors.
I found scribing it to my very bendy walls a ballache involving lots of cutting, planing and electric sander. I'm sure someone has a link to a neat youtube video of an amazing method that I didn't know about.
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• #42787
Firstly, lol at the hydrophobic vinyl wrap!
I've used a potentially questionable trick, due to lack of power tools, which is clamping a straight edge/bit of wood I know is straight enough to what i'm cutting then using a generic hand saw to follow that - stops me veering off/getting too wonky.
Could use silicone sticky stuff/mitre bond and then screw it from the inside using 30mm screws that will grab-but-not-go-through (assuming 2x 18mm panels)?
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• #42788
Think this is the one I just painted the kitchen with and it's so tough I can basically clean it with sandpaper. Costs a fortune but worth every penny.
Edit: checked and it's Dulux trade diamond Matt.
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• #42789
Boxed out my understairs this weekend. Only took 2.5 days. Oh, and the other 2.5 years prior.
Cheapo Macalister track saw doing a good job again.
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• #42790
Tidy, better than that Potter brat deserves.
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• #42791
I've said it here before: fit lap vents, lots of them. Small plastic vents that slot in between the layers of membrane to create airflow. Although if your roof is that new then maybe the membrane's breathable, I guess additional ventilation wouldn't hurt though.
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• #42792
Aye it’s about 70 quid a tin tinted 😂
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• #42793
Have just stripped banisters to reveal this monstrosity. Hoping to avoid the nuclear option of replacing this section and also don't want to paint back over. Advice on how to proceed? Thinking options are either standard tinted filler or clear epoxy? Any recommendations for either of those? Thanks!
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• #42794
Own it.
Clear epoxy. -
• #42795
Or route out and patch? Either way make a feature. If you want a uniform appearance then paint it.
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• #42796
Advice on how to proceed?
Leave it. It gives it character.
Any recommendations for either of those?...tinted filler...
Test practice - including finishing the surface to whatever grit you're going to use and sealing it.
Our floors tiles are filled with black. Imo the contrast is better than a mediocre match.
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• #42797
We’ve done the same, spits and cracks are in black, but for that feature, yes let’s call it a feature, I’d go copper, bronze or gold epoxy. Make it shine.
https://www.epodex.com/en/product/epoxy-resin-metallic-pigments/?1=Yellow-Gold-–-Metallic -
• #42798
Nice thanks. Yeah I’m pretty sure it’s a breathable membrane but those vents are cheap so might get some anyway.
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• #42799
Interesting, yeah I'm definitely more keen on the it's-a-feature-not-a-defect approach. I quite like how it looks it's obviously not very practical currently so needs filling. Anyone used the Gorilla two-part epoxy? Is there anything better than can be bought in non-boat quantities?
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• #42800
Ok, yeah, this looks great, I think Havana Bronze would look sweet. Think I'm probably going to need to remove the banister to do the pour, I assume that in situ the epoxy will just run out of the crack?
Also consider eye & ear protection.