Home DIY

give it a week of walking on it before final finish.
Will move a teeny tiny bit.

This would solve a lot of the issues (especially on door architrave[I do detest multi tools]) using an off cut of tile as a scribe blade guide.. I feel for @chrisbmx116 asks a simple question gets half a dozen options

Yeah. Here is a zoomed and enhanced section.

Bear in mind even the first pic is me bending down, so pretty close up. You can get these sealers in a variety of shades to get the best match. This is what our guys chose.

I'm happy with it and haven't ever really noticed it irl now we're living with it.

I think sometimes neatly finishing things with something functional looks as good as trying to hide everything.

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I can live with that, in fact I’d say it looks decent. Did you mask it off or just run a bead followed by a finger.

I can live with these tolerances all the way round.
Can I achieve it is another question.

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Looks perfect, dead funky tiles too

Cheers. Just did the bit to the right in that pic and it’s 3mm out in one place. May be able to fill it but also prob have enough tiles to just re cut with adjustments.
Happy with them not going under the skirting as it’s match the threshold and kinda enjoying it now!

Famous last words…

May be able to fill it but also prob have enough tiles to just re cut with adjustments.

This is the mantra of all tiling jobs.

Finger? Are you fucking mad?
You need to watch the mastic man’s tik-tok.
It’s worth it for the pixie-piss 😂 and the Barrymore pool party.
https://www.tiktok.com/@martyncoops/video/7051994680476568838?is_from_webapp=1&sender_device=pc&web_id=7297993396164740641

I like them... Let me know verdict after you're done.

As an amateur I found masking it off a revelation. I've seen pros do it without but personally I can't get a consistent thickness of bead and the masking (plus a little tool thing) solves that.

dont know anything about cork but do you need to leave an expansion gap?

I bought the same kit I think ages ago. The one Charlie DIY links in his guide.

https://amzn.eu/d/4mPYwsc

I've only just tried it out for the decorator's caulk on the skirting. It's hard to comment fully as it's been painted, but its definitely nice to have the angles. Eg I needed 0° to fill in the gap from the wall and you couldn't do that with a finger.

Personally for a neat application on previous jobs I've found masking helps.

It's glued to the underfloor so lateral expansion is probably limited to the amount the underfloor has.

I know tiles should have a perimeter expansion gap and they're 'glued' to the underfloor, infact here it states cork should as well ?

Hi All,

Ive just moved into my first house that I own a percentage of! Starting to look at painting and other little small things to tackle before I move onto the larger issues (the entire mainroom floor is warped as the roof had a leak a year back). I have these weird metal things in the walls eveywhere (see attached picture), which I would like to remove before painting- does anyone know how to remove them? I have tried a thin knife behind it, no luck, and Ive tried threading a m6/8 bolt into there but theres nothing for the threads to grip (as far as I can tell). Im not above angle grinding them out, but I would prefer this as a last resort due to the mess.

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Looks like a toggle fixing, you need to break the head off the front, I usually use a screwdriver.

Push it into the wall and them fill the hole it leaves.

Could be an expanding wall anchor. Is it a plasterboard wall? I would just either dig or drill them out and fill whatever hole is left. You're going to be filling anyway.

I think they are all in pasterboard, but Im unsure. Some are in what I thought were external walls (brick on the outside) but I dont know if theres plasterboard on the inside if that makes sense. I like the drilling idea, thats a good shout- Ill get a massive drillbit. And a drill.

Looks like a plasterboard wall anchor to me - could try this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=LZqCZfdvhbg

You might find that once the drill bit catches it rips them out anyway. You'd only need a HSS bit slightly bigger than the central hole, not the full diameter of the metal disc.

Or, if you can just smash them in so they are below flush with the wall you can just fill over.

When you first start DIY decorating, it is very tempting to try too hard to minimise damage/mess. I was very guilty of this. Obviously there's a sliding scale, but sometimes it is easier and faster to break something before it gets fixed. You could spend an hour trying to remove something delicately and carefully, where 30 seconds with a hammer/prybar/drill and a little more touch up/filling is more efficient in the end.

Been insulating the loft, I know the idea is to leave a gap for air circulation but on the front side of the house the gaps between rafters have been bricked up. Back side of the house seems to have fewer bricked up. There’s a good big overhang on the roof with vents all along the soffit. The membrane on the underside of the roof has an air gap between it and the tiles, though there are what feels like horizontal battens running across it which would stop much air flow I guess.

I know the roof was redone about three years ago so the infill bricks probably happened then.

What do?

I’ve put the insulation right up to the bricks and there is still a gap between it and membrane. Just keep and eye on it and look out for rotting rafters?

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My normal Little Greene is too expensive for every room. Should I use Dulux Trade durable matt for hallway and stairs/landing? Will be painting white and needs to be durable.