Let's offroad / mountain bike / mtb / ride dirt

Cheers!

Personally I ride 120 as there is almost be weight penalty. You can lock it out and ride rigid. But you can also descend quite a lot better than 100. But then again, I prefer to ride 140 as it's a lot better than 120. And so it does on. But for my XC bike I have 120.

But unless you riding real MTB terrain, 100 is fine, if a bit slower sometimes.

Yeah, i’m the same height and would love to be your weight! You can put a normal fork in a lefty frame if that helps, if it need spacing out I’m sure someone sell spacers for this.
I had the second iteration of the voodoo bizango and now have a pinnacle ramin, both budget fairly old but carefully chosen xc 29ers, both I would not hesitate to call very capable off road and both have done +100 mile days comfortably too. I upgraded wheels and forks on the bizango and built the ramin, they can be had so cheaply on ebay and gumtree. Then again, so can mark 1 carbon highballs which were very fancy.
My very modest hearts desire at the moment is a vitus xc 29 or something with 120mm up front (like another bizango) but these are not that different to what I have.

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😊

Can't do this on a gravel bike

https://youtube.com/shorts/4nN99DIdicM?si=l8Kz2UsZ0-AR56D-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qjiqm-C3Fs

;)

Saddle to low.
Chopper

Once you drop, you can't stop.

Decided today was the day to get torn into my Pike(y) fork to try and tackle the leaking oil from the damper adjuster.

Obviously I should have Read The Fucking Manual. Obviously I did not.

I presume I should have turned the red collar towards the bottom of the damper tube but instead I threaded it up the way which I think has sliced the bottom lip off my bladder.

Can anyone tell me how to get the bladder separated from the top cap now?

Or should I just buy this which seems to be bladder, top cap and the red bit I turned the wrong way all together? I’m thinking that with my fork leaking through the top cap/adjusters, just replacing the whole thing might be the way to go?

NM, I think that listing is actually just the rubber bladder. So I'll have to save/service my top cap. Looks like it's either that or buy a complete damper for £100+.

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I should have stuck to rigid forks!

I ordered a damper rod and seal head off eBay, it supposedly got returned to the vendor and I had to reorder, the same listing, eventually I got two different rods/heads delivered. They are BOTH different to what’s in the fork! Longer shafts and larger diameter plungers.

WTF?!

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Oh dear.. Good luck.

Rigid or get someone else to service them. That's what I know about forks.

Glad I stuck with rigid.
Good luck sorting it out!

How old are the forks? Warrenty?

I just warrentied my race day damper for going shit. Well I hope I'm getting another.

Tbh my opinion of rockshox forks isnt good.

You’ve got to break some eggs to make an omelette right?

Silver linings, i was worried about finding a lot of wear once I got inside the fork and that’s definitely not the case so it can be made good.

Warrenty?

Definitely out of warranty. It’s the Pike/Rev that’s been painted like a Judy DH. Thinking it might be a 2016 fork.

Bladder ordered. Going to just replace that and as many orings as I can as I put it all back together and hope for the best.

I'd really like to get this little oring from inside LSC bit of the damper out but I can't get it any further apart, anyone know where the secret button is?

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You're a brave man @M_V

It's really not too difficult. If you can service a looseball hub you can probably do this.

Hardest thing is keeping track of all the little bits that jump or fall out as you work.

Those tiny brass cylinders at the top of the 2nd image go through the blue bit and run in grooves in the grey/brown bit. There's also a couple really small springs and ball bearings that go into the blue bit as you slide it inside the larger grey/brown bit in the top image, that's what gives you the detents for open/pedal/firm. Both the brass cylinders and the bearings are keen as mustard to explore the workshop floor!

I'd be a bit more reticent to rip into a fork I'd paid full retail for or one that didn't already have issues but if something's already fucked then what is there to lose?

£15 replaced the only thing I've broken...so far.

Yeah. I can't even do a brake bleed without getting oil everywhere. So I just drop the fork out and give it to the shop.

This is easier than bleeding brakes. All this stuff is meant to be doused in oil!

There is a bleed to be done to the damper when I refill it which will probably be the hardest bit.

well that has put me off servicing my own fork
just pop the legs out and change the oil they said

If it's an open bath damper and you change the oil regularly. If the oil is black probs pay for the full service.

The hardest bit is not completely wrecking something critical and expensive - without realising.

Possibly more gravel (unless I have an XC bike by then I'll be doing it on my cross bike) but is anyone else doing this? https://pancelticrace.com/

I'm signed up for the 'world-class long' with a few people from my club.

As a tight fisted pict what do you get for your £77 plus booking fee?