Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

It was like that when I got here

Brooks saddle tension screw has recently started loosening itself as I ride (whole assembly gets loose after some time riding). Loctite on threads?

Sell it to some other poor sap and buy a decent saddle?

It's ass-shaped now unfortunately so selling it is out of the question.

All the secondhand ones are arse shaped, some people prefer that, but they're all kinda shitty.

From all the arse.

What chain wear checker and chain tool are folks using for sram axs force 12 speed? Reading various mixed things online about what system is best

So I stacked the gravel bike hard-ish yesterday. After picking myself up, I gave the bike the once over, and other than a scuff to the shifter and rear der (AXS XPLR), everything looked fine and shifted fine (including the biggest cog - see later).

Later, when I got the bike home, I took the rear wheel out to clean the bike properly. I also took out both jockey wheels as they were caked. Here's where it gets weird: after replacing the jockey wheels and the rear wheel, the derailleur/app now 'thinks' it's in a different gear to the one it's actually in. For example, when it's in the largest sprocket, the app says it's in sprocket 2, and sure enough, it will shift over the top if I try. Conversely, it won't drop into the smallest cog (10T), even if I max out the microadjust. This only seems to have happened since removing the wheel/jockey wheels.

I can get the LBS to check the rd hanger, but a bent hanger wouldn't explain why it shifted fine immediately after the crash. The jockey wheels are installed correctly, the wheel is visually true, I've updated firmware, checked the thru axle is seated properly, and I haven't touched the limit screws or B screws.

Any further ideas?

Picked up a friends bike to replace BB and bartape,

Think this will be ok for a few more miles?

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😵😬😳

Applied too much force

Nope, not worth the risk.

Joke.

Absolutely terrifying to see something so dangerous, the rider totally unaware.

Out of any crack I've seen on a bike, I think one straight down the stem would be the hardest to be unaware of. It's right there, in your face the entire time. Unless he normally has some kind of bag fixed on his stem?

Nope, and exactly. ...add the two-bolt plate for extra 😬

add a few zip ties or a hose clip if you want real belt n braces.. be fine i think...

just jkn

Does it move and flex if you twist the bars?

Yes, but not as much as you would think(!). I took it off, and you can easily open the crack between your fingers and see it running the entire length. Quite remearkable.

Would be interesting to see how much force you need to put into it to make it give out.

I have got myself a halo dj hub that I need to attend to,anyone have one of the special tools to get the lockring off? the cog is threaded but on a small thread. The details halo give are 23 x 1mm. I also would like to know where can I get a replacement cog cheaply please? the Halo ones are £20. The one it comes with is in OK condition but is like 10 or 11 teeth which won't be easier to pair with a chainring and the cranks I already have

Apply MORE force.

That definitely looks like something I would keep riding... "just to see what happens".

It's fitted to a Crackdor, so it's appropriate. ;)

Unfortunately it sounds like the internals of the rear derailleur have been damaged in some weird way.

I had something similar recently and got it back to SRAM tech. They give it a 10 minute assesment and sent a replacement.

A similar thing happened to me after a bad wheel change. There is a sprung bar inside the parallelogram that got pulled out of position which meant my whole derailleur was out of whack, didn't notice, chucked the wheel back in the bike, started riding, then couldn't shift past halfway on the cassette. It's hidden behind this bar, and typical SRAM, they put a threaded hole there for a retaining screw, and then never assembled it...

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On the topic of cracks in aluminium.
Picked up this kray 90s K2 of skating fame alu 26" MTB frame only to find out at home there's a crack in the bottom headtube.
It's a beater so could go the "drill 3mm at end of crack and keep it from promalgating" but on the other hand I like having teeth.
What's the hive minds verdict? Terminal?
Already wrote the seller and he seemed a decent chap. Just wanted to get some outside opinion.

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