Mudguards

I run 42 mm tyres under 60 mm bluemels.. there's a gap, but nothing wildly offensive to my eyes.

Here's my yearly "I fucking hate mudguards" comment.

Carry on.

Ha, that's my old Langster in my parents back garden 10+ years ago! Those chairs are still going strong.

"Much better than pictured" I'm hurt.

Oh dear haha! I was seeing red at the point of writing this, my deepest apologies. “Pan lids” was a pretty bad description too, are they still holding up?

Late reply; I have done all this nonsense. And yes CJF is right, sizing down tyres is easiest, cheapest, fastest solution. I did not accept this so I:

1. Bought wider guards
   
2. Bought a diff frame (the brake bridge placement matters)
   
3. Bought calipers that have better clearance (VO)
   
   

And gained 3mm, went from 25c to 28c.

It also looks like you have sliding dropout, play with that, fenderline is important to get more clearance.

Mine are on a fixie with track ends so with chain length and axle placement its very 4D chess.

Thanks Amey, although 4D chess is my least favourite variety. Guards are now sold, frame has gone in a skip and I’ve taken up knitting instead 👍

No worries, it was a pretty poor job! They worked well but no idea if they held up, I sold the frame with the guards many years ago.

trust me, its for the best.

GB mudguard install required 3 working days in total.

The frame was a gift so is a non negotiable, and I don’t want to size down the tyres. A brake calliper with more height clearance could be a solution? Leaving it for the weekend to cool off!

Just go back from the greenhouse to share a tip I found on the Paceline forum, it's helped me out with clearance a good deal, so might help someone else seeking another mil or two under the brake.

The centring bolt on the calliper was wound in when I installed (and presumably bought) the set. Not very far, but far enough that removing the bolt opened up the calliper a LOT. I had to manually re-centre the brake with the fixing bolt (easy if you have one hand squeezing the lever) and re-tensioned the cable. I'd say this raised the front arm by 3mm or so, the rear arm contacts the guard now, but I think there's about 2mm more clearance than there was. I'm unsure why I didn't know the centring bolt could also affect clearance, evil little thing.

As you can see, there's still not enough clearance for me. I can't fit a 3mm key between the guard and the 28mm tyre. Disappointing for a guard that's stated to clear a 32mm.

Hope it helps someone!

Edit: Perspective is odd in the gif, but brakes are centred in each photo

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anyone got a spare silver stay to fit a honjo/VO guard?
or can point me in the direction of where to grab one in the UK?
changing forks and previously trimmed stay is now too short

Freshtripe would be my best bet.

unfortunately had a very low speed 'racing incident' with a clubmate this am; mangled my front pdw mudguard (very thankful to not habve fucked anything else up incl. clothing).... functionally it is largely ok after bending it a bit back and forth but would like to replace at some point - obviously SHIT because they cost a lot and i only need a front. long shot but anyone happen to have a spare? anyone tried the new alloy sks guards?

photo is pre repair efforts :-)

If it's just the stay you want to replace, I'm pretty sure they sell them spare at Condor

unfortunately the guard itself is mangled and scratched up massively. i might drop condor a line though!

What guards does the crew recommend for 47-584 tyres on a Fairlight Secan?

Mudguard Support Bracket

Home made, for Sunbeam roadster (see Current Projects, 'Last Build')
It's mild steel sheet, heavier gauge than the original, which also got damaged in a crash.

I don't know the age of these guards ( they're not original to the machine) but I think it's likely that they are pre - war.

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Anyone looking to shift on a set of VO black hammered fenders, 700x45? Any condition… Long shot obviously

I’ve got some black hammered fenders, think they’re the blb ones. , £30!

OK so I have fitted mudguards to the winter bike I built up (a second hand bob jackson frame - complete with audax UK sticker). It was built for the original owner with close clearance at the front (I have the bob jackson paperwork which shows this) and it is so close I can't quite get my SKS longboards to fit without the odd scraping noise when it gets wet and muddy.

I've fettled it as much as I can (re-drilling the brake mounting bracket and filing down a nut and playing with the stays etc etc) and it's the closest I can get the mudguard to the underside of the fork crown (2-3 mm gap).

My question is this - would I stand any better chance with PDW (or other) mudguards or does close clearance actually mean "not enough clearance" in this instance? I can't see how it would help me given PDW are not circular x-section, but I thought I would ask as I'm pretty fed up given the amount of extra tinkering I've had to do on top of the usual rage filled mudguard fitting session...

edit - tyres are 25c Conti four seasons on rim brake aksiums - they don't look partic bulbous...

Is it caliper brakes? If so, you could try cutting two small slots in the guard under/either side of the brake bolt - then feed a cable tie down one and up the other and tighten it around the brake bolt. Can buy a couple of mill by lifting the guard up. I've done it a few times with success.

Can you not just push the guard all the way up against the underneath of the fork crown? Or is something getting in the way?

My PDW guards are super tight at the rear on my road fixed because the position of the rear bridge is very close to the tyre.

I found a very flat, domed hex bolt which kinda helped, but I still find myself unclogging the rear guard on long winter rides. I carry a chopstick around for this.

Thanks - this might work - I’ve already filed down a nut on the guard so that it recesses inside the fork crown but the guard still slopes down toward the rear of the crown - so will try and rig up something there and lift it a bit.

Will pm, thanks

Front wheel mudguard, spray is exiting the top and blowing back into my hands.

Do I just need to rotate it more forward to be more level or even downward?
Could be tricky, perhaps some sort of flap would work?