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• #4577
On motorbike, those type of connectors are used. They are waterproof. But given that the connection to the dynamo has nothing waterproof and still works, not sure it is useful. Not expensive though...
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• #4578
Thanks for this by the way, I had seen that one but it was out of stock everywhere.
I like handlebar mounting because it gives you the option of using a front roll when bikepacking and it's easy to remove. I found a couple of other options, coincidentally both on Wiggle:
Exposure "e-bike handlebar bracket" - okay but doesn't give you much adjustability due to the triangular shape of the mount
Lezyne e-bike centre forward mount - also okay but not super robust.
B&M alu is probably the most likely to survive a bashing I suppose.
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• #4579
Too late...
1 Attachment
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• #4580
I've got a SP PD8 dynamo hub, which I think is 6volt/3w.
I'm looking to get the Supernova Pure3 front light, and a rear light too. Probably a stupid question: I’m assuming I want the 6v rear light as opposed to the 12v version?
Also, for commuting on the road over winter, is there an obviously better choice than the pure3? (mainly small country roads)
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• #4581
12v are for e-bikes.
b+m IQ-X or SON edelux II are in the same price range and quality. b+m IQ-XS offers a very similar experience at half the price.
Supernova rear light only has stand light in combination of Supernova front light, while b+m or SON have their own battery and are independent from the front light.
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• #4582
Thanks captain, really helpful. Much appreciated.
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• #4583
The 3m backed things are shite, they don't cope with weather and fall apart, rattle around under your BB.
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• #4584
I’m using these from SJS
1 Attachment
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• #4585
Not near my bike to get a better photo
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• #4586
Those are nice, I wish they did them in a wider variety of diameters. My downtube is too fat for them.
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• #4587
If you don't mind a bit of surface prep you can have some fairly discrete stick on ones?
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• #4588
These are the ones I have - they've performed very poorly.
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• #4589
From experience, though the frame looks clean, it still needs to be degreased thoroughly for anything to glue on it.
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• #4590
The sticky pads are staying on the frame well (too well, really) but the adhesion between the plastic cable guide/zip tie anchor and the pad does not survive the weather.
If I had thought about it, those sort of zip tie anchors are available as a braze-on and really popular now for gravel bikes and other instances where full-length outers are desirable. I should have put a few on the frame when I built it.
An easy alternative might be to drill a few holes and fit some rivnut type bottle bosses, and respray (or maybe there are stainless ones). Then the dynamo cable could be secured with small p-clips screwed into the bottle bosses.
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• #4591
I'm trying to utfs but am not having a lot of luck, I might be using the wrong keywords:
What are my options in terms of having a USB out somewhere around my cockpit / top cap, to charge a phone / garmin?
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• #4593
Yo - I have the Pure 3 and was a little disappointed on the TNRC rides in comparison to the B&M boys. Its bullet proof, but wasn't hugely happy with the output for the money.
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• #4594
If you want to try without breaking the bank: Spanninga Nomad light 40 lux with USB port (in the list provided).
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• #4595
I'm sure it's been mentioned in the previous 184 pages, but what's a good cheap, mudguard attachable rear dynamo light?
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• #4596
B&M Secula ticks those boxes, I've had a couple and they've done the job well
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• #4597
Rather pleased with myself
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• #4598
That is near, I've done one attaching to the seat clamp, but this is nicer!!
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• #4599
I prefer the B&M Secuzed to the Secula - makes for neater wiring and seemingly less things to rattle around
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• #4600
Will be filing this nifty hack in the back of my mind. Great work.
DI2 cable guides - just make sure you clean, clean clean the area where you're going to stick it. Brush clean, Fairy liquid and water, rinse well, then isopropyl alcohol.