The Hobby That Dare's Not Speak Its Name Aka Wargaming

Thanks!

half a cardboard box

I was wondering if I could make a cheap DIY one with a cardboard box, computer fan, 9v battery, and readily available filter (e.g. one from a hoover or cooker hood). Idea being that the filter would catch the paint and you wouldn't need to send the exhaust outside. Don't know if the paint vapour particles are too small though and you'd need a specialised (expensive) filter meaning that it would be cheaper to go with just pumping it outside?

Unfortunately not! Playing at a different tourney in nottingham this weekend though!

Good luck! What team are you playing?

I had trouble with the kind of airbrush/compressor that @Sumo suggested but it was second hand so could have been that, I know that a lot of people get on well with them.

I know that a lot of people use this compressor: https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/as18-2-airbrush-compressor-as18-2-p17367/

and generally as long as you get a dual action brush you should be alright, if you're on a budget, can always upgrade later. A lot of people keep their beginner brush for priming and get a fancier one that they use for other stuff. .4mm needle+nozzle is a good covers-everything size.

I think open window and a good respirator are worthwhile. Acrylics aren't dangerous to consume generally but it's really best not to breath in stuff that's not air.

I have this: https://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/Airbrushes-accessories/airbrush-and-compressor-bundles/cult-of-paint-workhorse-bundle and have been very happy with it, but understand it is a little $$$ for some to commit to as a first set up.

With acrylics you don't need to worry about vapours just particles in the air, a mask like this is cheap and effective https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/safety/reusable-respirators/maintenance-free-half-mask-ffa1p2-r-d-filters-4251%2B/p/ZT1259816X

I'm not sure a computer fan would have enough pull enough through. If you want to build something you're basically emulating this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Display4top-Airbrush-Extractory-Portable-Extraction/dp/B07CG454GN/ref=asc_df_B07CG454GN/
You need 1 open side, filter at the back, fan to pull air through it and a duct to funnel the output somewhere, maybe another filter at the end of the duct. Personally I'd just stick with a cardboard box and £15 mask.

Speaking of airbrushes I watched the product launch video for this recently and it's firmly at the top of my list of hobby stuff to get https://harder-airbrush.net/products/ultra-2024

These ones are direct from China but seem to not be just copies of other brands, they've got some pretty good reviews across the board https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gaahleri-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Cost-Effective-Painting/dp/B0BN7QSQ76/ref=asc_df_B0BN7QSQ76/

I bought some of the new ironjawz for AoS and building the new weirdbrutez just made me so sad. they're such cool models but they go together so badly. Just feel really poorly thought out.

Cheers. A Lizards team (my only one) called Nottingham Rainforest. I need to brush up on rules and tactics asap.

Sorta on topic, why did Games workshop change its name to just warhammer on the shops now? Use to play went I was younger but not now

I bought a starter airbrush kit from everything airbrush of eBay. About £70. All seems pretty solid and well made. I wish I had bought an airbrush with more than 2ml cup though

I also got an airbrush cleaning pot which seems a good idea.

I don't know if GW ever explicitly said why they did it, but I think it's just for accessibility - when a kid says "I want warhammer for christmas!" it's easier for parents to know where to go. A lot of adult / more experienced hobbyists won't buy anything from actual GW stores cause all 3rd party store offer a discount.

Nice, let us know how it goes! Lizards are strong. I think there's some good rules cheat sheets out there.

So is a warhammer shop basically a GW store?

Yeah the stores are the same as they used to be, just renamed/rebranded. They still sell the games that don't have warhammer in the title like kill team, blood bowl, etc.

Came 2nd at Stranglebowl (blood bowl) on Saturday. 90 coaches there so pretty pleased with the result! Especially cause I finished painting the team the day before. I did have to glue some of the trophy back together after putting it in a bag to go to the pub.

Congrats!

Well done!

ty folks

Congrats @zooeyzooey!

I've just started getting back into miniature painting after not touching it since I was a kid. Is this an okay place to ask questions?

This is a safe space; no one will judge you.

Haha! Great news.

Anyone got any tips for washes? Rather than helping pick out the fine details, I just make my models look like they're covered in shit.

Which washes are you using? You can thin them down with water or glaze medium or you can be more precise where you put them on the model

Only used agrax earthshade and nuln oil, always seem to end up with stains like you can see in the below.

1 Attachment

It looks like the paint might be a little thick, meaning that the wash might have more trouble running into the recesses. So for future paint jobs maybe try thinning your paint a bit more for your basecoats, or going lighter on the primer.

Space marines aren't a great case for all over washing, since there's so many flat surfaces, so you'll commonly end up with this kind of splodgy look. The standard thing to do here for the sort of GW base/wash/highlight approach is base coat -> wash -> tidy up the flat / raised surfaces with the basecoat colour again (optionally then go into highlights). Alternatively maybe selectively apply the wash, just putting it in the recesses you want it in, and then tidy up any small overspill with the base coat again.

A light colour base coat will show up any splodges easier too. For my White Scars I have to pin wash just in the recesses and tidy up any over spill. I'd try thinning your wash a little bit and remember before it dries you can move it around or even remove it with a dry paint brush.
For marines in particular as zooey mentioned the flat surfaces mean an all over isn't usually the best idea but what you can do instead it just put a drop in each recess or run your brush along the underside of the armour and it'll flow to there but not move further.

Here's a gladiator that's made it to tabletop ready but not beyond like most of my models. If you look at the base of the turret gun you can see where I've missed some shade over spill

1 Attachment