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• #20402
Nah it’s an actual disc wheel.
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• #20403
Get yourself a good crack-pipe adapter in advance of race season 👍
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• #20404
You might need to explain what that is.
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• #20405
Goes on the end of your pump
1 Attachment
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• #20407
I’ve seen those silca ones - I seem to remember someone sourcing imitation ones from china. £65 is a bit rich for me!
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• #20409
seem to remember someone sourcing imitation ones
The Silca is already an imitation of the original Hirame Yoko 🙂
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• #20410
There's a guy on the TT forum who sells Hirame (or Hirame style heads). I'll try to find him.
Personally I wouldn't worry about the crack, but yes, something to stop it spreading will never hurt. You'll probably find half the field will have similar on their discs.
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• #20412
There's a guy on the TT forum who sells Hirame (or Hirame style heads)
Wonder if he actually sells any when Singletrack are offering the Truflo version at £16
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• #20414
thanks everyone for making me less worried about the crack!
I've carved much bigger lumps than that out of my disc to make the hole big enough for a Yoko crack pipe. Generally, the disc types which don't rely on tensioned skins are a very inefficient design for stiffness, so they end up very overbuilt for strength.
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• #20415
I had 11 in a studio and I think 9 in this 1BR. Try harder.
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• #20416
I’ve been offered a PDQ PB frameset, with brakes are they any good? Or will I be buying tat? I can borrow a cockpit from a friend. I’ve got some cranks, chain, 135 spaced fixed wheel and a front wheel. Is there anything else I’d need to have a go at a 10miler fixed?
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• #20417
I can borrow a cockpit from a friend. I’ve got some cranks, chain, 135 spaced fixed wheel and a front wheel. Is there anything else I’d need to have a go at a 10miler fixed?
You'll need a 130mm OLN wheel for that frame. The dropouts look very short, so it's probably going to need a magic gear. You'll need a helmet and front and rear lights
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• #20418
will I be buying tat?
Well, yes, obviously, but it depends on the price. You can typically get an old P2 or P3 frame for £500 or less once you've parted out one of the complete/partial bikes on ebay, so you probably don't want to pay more than half that for a PDQ
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• #20419
Cheers, can do the wheel as I have a set of 120mm/130mm/135mm spacers. I’ve got a lid and some little lights. Maybe a 1/2 link and a bit of track slack will get the chain sorted?
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• #20420
The frameset and brakes are a bit under that so they’re in the right ballpark. I was getting drawn in by the £1300 rrp on the frame, but looks like that includes the bars. Hmmm
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• #20421
I've got one here and it's been fine. The mould has been used by loads of other brands. The brakes should be trp ttv's they're fiddly but work OK the springs don't last forever but are available still. I'd say anything under £400 for one is a decent price
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• #20422
I have a Vitus Chrono TT, which looks awfully similar (the model I have). I bought it for £300 as a frameset with brakes + bars + TT extensions, but in a very neglected condition. Cable guiding to the rear brake is not a nightmare, brakes are OK to setup. Very happy with it, and I'd need to add a good 100 watts to my FTP before this frameset becomes the limiting factor :)
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• #20423
You can typically get an old P2 or P3 frame for £500 or less
I'm up for selling my 2012 P3 frameset for well under £500
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• #20424
Oh my this was good info 2 months ago. Ah well I can bragg about my hirame 😥
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• #20425
No TT bike for me then, the car needs a new exhaust :/
More likely from tugging it off (ooh er)
Raltech cover? Take it off and add a layer of carbon around the hole on the inside face to reinforce it